How to get the antifreeze to syphen back into the overflow tank on a 2004 chrysler sebring 2.4

SOURCE: oil sending unit on 2004 chrysler sebring V6

Should be located close to the oil filter. It will screw in like a spark plug. It has a harness plug. Easy to change, save yourself $70 in labor. You will need a fairly large wrench to remove

SOURCE: 2004 chrysler sebring idle speed is too slow. HOw

why do you want your rpms higher while idling? you don't want them high because your gas bill will reflect that. slow shouldn't matter but if it's dying while on idle it could either be your mass air flow sensor or your fuel filter being clogged

SOURCE: Where is the fuel filter located on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan

Some of the Sebrings have two filters(one is called a sock).The sock(which all sebrings have) is located in the fuel tank itself on the pump module.If this model is the JXI then the external filter is located on the belly of the car between the tank and drivers rear seat. I hope I could help!!!

SOURCE: I have 2 codes showing on my 2004 chrysler

P0137 O2 Sensor Bank 1, Sensor 2 Voltage Low
P2096 Down Stream Fuel System Bank 1, Sensor 2 Lean

There are 3 possible engines in your vehicle, a 2.4L 4-cyl, a 2.7L V-6, and a 3.0L V-6. If your car has a 4-cyl then there is only one downstream O2 sensor. This is where you need to start the diagnosis for code P0137.
While it would be nice to assume that the sensor is faulty, the sensor wiring between sensor and PCM could be the problem as well.
That said, you are looking for a DOWNSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR. I strongly advise that the replacement be OEM compatable. Avoid Universal Replacement types that use **** connectors to make them work.
Good Luck!

SOURCE: HOW DO YOU FILL A

There are essentially two different types of cooling systems. Not sure which you have but both are similar as far as filling. The first type is one where the radiator has a cap on it. To fill, remove the cap and slowly pour in the coolant. after you have at least 3/4 of a gallon in there, start the engine with the heater on high and continue filling. Shut the engine off just before it reaches operating temp (allows the thermostat to open) and wait about three minutes, then re-start and continue filling. If coolant burps out of the radiator, turn it off and wait again then re start. You are finished when you cannot put more coolant in.
The other one is a closed system. In that case, the recovery bottle has a screw on top (as opposed to a "flip cap"). Open that cap and follow all instructions above.
I cannot remember ever seeing a vehicle that could not be run with the cap removed for an extended period of time, providing that you do not change the engine rpm or attempt to drive with the cap removed.
There is one item you need to know though....Some cooling systems are prone to becoming air locked. The manufacturer provides bleed screws to remove that trapped air. To locate those bleed points, consult either a chilton or haynes manual (a good investment).
If you can not add coolant and the system keeps backing up, chances are good that you have a defective thermostat or an internally restricted ( passages blocked by crud, preventing flow through core) or externally blocked radiator (leaves or other debris stuck between the radiator and the A/C condenser preventing heat exchange). If you find coolant in the engine oil, or oil in the coolant, the engine runs rough or you have steam or excessive dripping from the tailpipe, then it's possible that you have a failed cylinder head gasket (allows engine compression into the cooling system, driving the coolant out). (big job to repair)
Always make sure that your fans are operating properly. Most come on just above normal operating temp.(unless coolant flow is restricted).
Anything here you don't understand, just ask!!!