96geo metro hard to start ok when started

do you have a voltmeter, any?
if you do, this is childs play, but not, near impossible to see electrons
with eye balls. we can see atoms, but not electrons, probably never.
Dr.Tyson...... quote.
but back to earth, this is easy , the FSM cover this, as does alldata.com
but i bet $15 for the online is over budget?
my guess, is not have any elect. power really means you cant
CRANK the engine over?
or it cranks or will not start.
no car cranks with out a starter, cept my M/T i can push start
it and gravity start mine.
but my guess 2 is yours is A/T tranny.
so must crank.

why not post like this.
i get in car, i turn on head lights, they are dead. (dead battery or fuse blown) no, my head lights work. (this is always test 1)
then i turn the key on, and the dash idiot lamps all glow. (normal)
if not the fuses are blown or the battery is dead.
a good battery reads (any voltmeter even walfart $10 meter)
12.6vdc rested.
ok my dash glows. and more important the EFI CEL lamp
this lamp is called many thing, MIL, SES or check engine light
if it dont glow, then the Fuser to the EFI are in fact blown.
or the lamp is bad.
if in usa, you can plug any OBD2 scan tool into the near knees DLC port and it will connect, key on, if not the fuses are BLOWN.
you push the scan button and get what codes? DTC errors.
report them.
then crank for 5 seconds (im assuming it can) and you get what DTC.

if car will not crank
then jumper start crank it. does it?
yes, then the battery was dead.
if battery dead, charge it , does it crank now?
if battery discharges parked this is called parasitic drain.
if starter is dead , with jumper cables that is bad starter or key line.


we can do this 1 step at a time
but you never posted the symptoms.

1. head lamps dead.
2. dash dead.
3. starter dead (will not crank)
4. all above good , engine will not start.

in that order.

ever tune it up, every 60,000 miles, this decade?
yes?
cold fuel is hard to burn, and bad spark is cause.
tune it up.
spark parts never last the life of any engine.
nor work cold , and damp, when old.
oldest cause on earth.

First, check to make sure your fluid level is correct. That is most important. 50k miles is a bit too many miles on a transmission oil change. Off the top of my head I think Chevy want it every 35k? Could be wrong. Whatever you do, DO NOT do a flush, do a oil change WITH filter. If your pickup filter is plugged that could cause a ton of problems.

Could be the MAF sensor. I would try scanning for codes, although sometimes the MAF sensor does not show up on scanner. sounds like the MAF to me.

You didn't write if its a diesel or petrol engine, and also is hard to comprehend the problem you are trying to describe. But if the problem is that the engines reves on slightly higher rpm then normally, it's OK, especially in winter, the fuel inject system need to put more gasoline to the engine when the engine is very cold.

When was the last time you had a tune-up? It can be a ton of things wrong. Start with the obvious things first, or the cheapest to check.
First off, how long does it actually run good for, once you get it started?
That in itself, means alot.

Change your Minis Mass Air Sensor this will solve your problem.

I would focus on what's making your car hot.... a bad catalytic converter sounds like what you have...It's before the muffler..It gets clogged up...makes car run a little hotter and harder to start....Google it

Sounds like the idle speed motor is not working or very dirty throttle body.
You would have to remove the black plastic hose on top of the throttle body and get a cleaner(throttle body cleaner or carb. cleaner) and spray it down into the opening.
If you have a hard time starting because of the liquid in the throttle body, try holding down the gas pedal while starting.

your muffler shop are a bunch of **** i have work for a dodge dealer ship for 24 years way to take it to the people that make a whole 400 dollars a week im sure they are very smart you dont want help