20 Most Recent 1996 Geo Metro Questions & Answers

Hook up a noid light to the injector harness and see if it pulsates when cranking the engine. Check the fuses. The computer grounds the injectors.

This post has your answer and a lot more. https://www.amsoil.com/MyGarage/VehicleLookupPrint.aspx?url2=1996+GEO+METRO+6

This link my help ID the part. It could be the drain plug, its possible it can off. Depending on how much antifreeze that was in the system and where you live it could also be a freeze plug that was pushed out due to to little antifreeze. https://www.1aauto.com/1996--geo-metro-radiator-l4-1.3l/i/1arad00595?f=294487&y=1996&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20Campaign%20M-R%20-%20Medium&utm_term=4576992029204078&utm_content=M-R

go have the trouble code read most auto stores offer this service for free that will assist in repairing your problem

Check your battery connections at the starter. It may not be getting the needed volts. Just make sure they're clean and tight at the starter and the battery both. Good luck!

You didn't describe the nature of the 'noise' which is probably why you haven't received a prior reply.
If it is missing, it might be injector problems but the injectors themselves are not loud enough to be heard over the other engine noise.
Spark plugs, ignition wiring, fuel filters cannot 'make noise.' Any of those can cause the car to run rough but not cause any specific noise unless it is related to the engine misfiring and in that case, it wouldn't just be a source of noise but also inadequate acceleration and a prominent jerking of the car at low RPMs. Carbon buildup is the likely cause although causing any engine to lug (drive in a higher gear at low speeds) can damage bearings in the engine, creating excessive bearing play and a knocking noise under some conditions. Also, a failed exhaust manifold gasket or associated pipes being cracked can really cause a racket.
Without us hearing the noise, it's kind of hard to diagnose it, but the above might give you some guidance.     

that is the TCM the TCM transmission brain, needs to be scanned ! Do not overfill the trans, fill it using the instructions; do not guess. so does Drive always work in 1st, gear car moves ok. and reverse.,. only fails to up shift in drive that it, ??? post symptoms more clearly please... there are like 50 bad symptoms possible on any A/t 1996 in the USA (are you or in Canada?) is a major car redesign, here, OBD2 laws, et cetera. and when they did that (some suzuki's) the TCM still is using old rules. old TCM retained, seem not on this car... later they moved Mrs. TCM into the ECU box. and renamed it PCM. that is the short history on most 96 cars made. why not buy a used service manual on this car, off fleabay and see all that uniqueness to this 96 car. A metro is are really a GM modified, Suzuki SWIFT. see hood sticker it states that clearly. (up under) adding to the uniqueness of any 96 car the GEO mods. i looked online for you. it shows the M60 3speed trans shows its controlled from the PCM (its integrated) 6 gear shift wires, that must work 2 wire VSS speed sensor (clean it ?) 2 shift solenoids. ever heard of a scan tool? any USA scan tool works on a USA car, 96, (98 in canada) plug it in, best is to driven and scan to see all errors. (2 persons dig?) then see DTC errors, P07xx errors the errors must be corrected. first. recap. 1: check fuses. 2: check levels (not guessing,hot in park, read manual) 3: scan it with any obd2 scan tool made. post results

The steering lock consists of a hardened pin and it may not be releasing any more although it shouldn't interfere with the turning of your key, just your steering unless the Geo is done differently.
If it was mine, I would get a little rough with it and turn the steering wheel hard from left to right while trying to turn the ignition key. 
Even disassembly is not easy since the lock area is supposed to be secure so it cannot be easily defeated.

REDUX1. (metro/swift)No country stated, are you in CANADA? (be diffr)i can not decode your engine number,my guess those are the wild GM codes, on the smog sticker, ouch.]If in usa, the under hood EPA mandated stickershows this DLC2, if needed, did you look there first! it also show timing spec. and lash spec,does it? it will show 4 pin or 6pin for this yearif it is provided at all. In fact that is the whole purpose of this sticker, to get you on TRACK.if you read the WIKI, on said car you would see 2 engines, G13ba and bb. ive no clue as to which it is. no photos posted?as usual here, and same wild guessing endless.sigh. nor country. so first learn what engine you have, there are 5 G13s used and 2 on all metros that year, 1.3 Lwhat changes, is what.the headthe ECU and all parts related. and timing rules.for sure in USA, many suzuki's 1996there are in fact 2 DLCs, one for OBD2 and other for timing freeze and ISC duty cycle calibration, the Swift book I have shows using TECH1 scan tool to freeze this idle timing.but why not post a photo of your engine, BA or BB.???????here is a post from a 98 owner metro. On a 1998 model, the jumper connector is behind the glovebox.Ive never seen post 1995 Suzuki use the cab for non OBD2, DLC. ever. but, does not surprise me.for sure , nobody has all metro books, from 1990 to last made., no one.try MITCHELL's DIY on line yet>? i do have 2000 swift book and it shows no DLC2 on car.in 1998 GM and SUZUKI sold in Canada went to OBD2.so if in CANada running a real Canada car, not usa. the rules and methods are all different.so... be like the 4th person ever to tell their country, and be a WIN WIN !here is the 2000 swift wayjust FYI, to see the wild variances world wide.we know know the DLC2 was deleted 1999 or 2000 year. well in Europe. i was on swiftsi track geo mod.s to swifts and there Geo's.and the trend AT GM(GEO) is it is DELAYEDthey delay changes from Swift to GEO. in most casestook lots of buying parts to learn that.I had G16 that delayed, from 2002 to 2004, SUZ to GEO.best if you own any GEO,in USA< is to buy the GEO FSM BOOKs on EBAY, buy them used, real factor FSM.and all this is ALL THERE. (i promise)have it before car breaks,and even have if for you mech, that never in his life seen any GEOs or much less, early timing rules. 90s rules.then he wont mess it up. too.

or this , forum below , its free and they have DATA.unlike here, we have zero data, just rumor , mostly.http://geometroforum.com/index/ok, spark timingin the USA? you never said,Ill guess USAin the USA open the hood, the sticker on the hoodunder it, EPA regs. tells you valve lash too...tells you the spark timing SPEC. clear as day.by law here.they sold G10 engines, or G13bb engines. ok your other double posts shows the G13bb. ok.be it Known all suzuki have DLC2 in the bayfrom 1988 to 2002, for timing freeze,.when they went to DIS spark, it ended. fact.DIS means no timing possible by humans, by law.here is the procedure on all G enginesdistributor timed,spark.read spec on hood, degree's before TDC BTDC, Before means to the left if mark on scale, the mark is on the crank pulley and the scale is on the timing belt cam cover.hot engine.Idle speed must be normal, most are 800RPM.next , insert the timing freeze jumper or the job will be impossible. (unless timed with spark dead)with this jumper in place in the DLC connectorthe ECU freezes timing advance allowing you to set it. by moving the DISTRIBUTOR base.that is it. after tightening the dist. base boltand removing the jumper.end.now you know....I got more.5Deg BTDC is usa spec. seen under hood sticker.A.C off, defrost off, PS not overloaded, all accessories off. the only hard part is identifying, the 2 pins in DLC2, the online fsm schematic skips these 2 wiresand colors.cavity 4/5 (that is ground on DLC1) but not on DLC2under hood the pins are unique and some have 4 pins others 6. sadlypin 4 and 5or C and Dare the 2 class pins for timing freezethe 4/5 is 6pinthe C/D is 4 pin conn.

the horn is worth nothing. its a very very old horn, and weak and rusty, and really just junk., why save a horn. id remove engine and trans and sell them before some $1 horn.

Replace the blower motor. The brushes wear out. Any autoparts store has them. About 100 dollars

The normal timing mark is on the harmonic balancer and the timing plate at the front of the engine. If you are talking about the cam then it is on the pulley and the head.

When you tighten an engine head you start from the middle then work to each end in a criscross fashion to the specified torque .This is to bed the head down evenly.

3 posts. now adds torque, next will have the full FSM book in print here. https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#q=metro+head+torque++3cyl+site:fixya.com timing answered 2 times now, your 2 others anon posts.

marks, do 2 things, allow setting cam timing, and spark timing. https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#q=metro+timing+marks++3cyl+site:fixya.com if you search, this has been asked 100s of times now. see search above. no job stated no context.

Sep 28, 2014too old, to post ...? seems not.check pump voltage at the pump cranking.then if that fails to be 11v.then at the fuel pump relay, cranking, (the big pink wire is it)FI fusesand ig-coil fuse must be good.and the CEL lamp glow key on, or ECU may be dead.(ask)always test with a $10 volt meter,voltages matter, test lamps were great back in 1950/60.these cars love to have, like 6 or 8v on the way to the pump, due to rust on the connectors.the meter shows this truth, and never a lamp.

Try this:

1st = 3.416 2nd = 1.894 3rd = 1.28 4th = 0.914 5th = 0.757 final drive = 4.39