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Posted on May 22, 2009
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Power steering failure

When car starts in the morning, it has power steering...then shortly after driving at 30mph...there is no power steering, car turns like a truck. Since this is variable assist steering, I wonder if some speed sensor valve is sticking and if there is anything I can do besides take it to the stealership?

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Harvey N Tawatao

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  • Cadillac Master 3,854 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2009
Harvey N Tawatao
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Problems with electronic variable-assist systems include all of the same things that can go wrong with a conventional power steering system (leaks, center wear in the steering gears, pump & hose failures, etc.), plus problems with the control electronics including the vehicle speed sensor circuit, the solenoid valve and control module. Accurate diagnosis, therefore, is essential to minimize warranty returns. Most of these systems provide diagnostic fault codes that can be accessed with a voltmeter, test light or scan tool to pinpoint the nature of the fault (if the fault is electronic rather than mechanical or hydraulic).

If power to the solenoid or control valve actuator is lost, the valve keeps the bypass circuit closed so full power assist is provided under all driving conditions. The only indication of trouble, therefore, might be a loss of road feel and/or increased steering sensitivity at highway speeds.

It’s important to remember that variable-rate power steering only reduces the amount of pressure that reaches the steering gear at higher road speeds. The only way it could reduce power assist at low speed would be in the unlikely event the actuator or solenoid valve failed in the open position. This could cause a noticeable reduction or loss of power assist.

On GM’s Magnasteer racks, loss of current to the magnetic coils would cause a loss of power assist at low speed. Coil resistance can be checked with an ohmmeter, and should read about two ohms. An infinite (open) reading indicates a bad coil (requires replacing the rack since the coils are not serviceable). Checking for shorts between both sides of the coil assembly and rack housing is also recommended.

The system does have self-diagnostic capability, but there is only one fault code: C1241 (Magnasteer circuit malfunction). The code is set if the module detects an open or a short in the coil circuit. If this code is present, the Magnasteer system is disabled and will not vary the steering effort as vehicle speed changes. The C1241 body code can be read with a Tech 2 or equivalent scan tool. The Tech 2 tool can also be used to perform a Magnasteer function test. The test varies the current to the coil so you can check for a change in steering effort when turning the steering wheel.

Replacement racks for variable-assist power steering applications are available with or without an EVO control solenoid. As long as the original EVO control solenoid is working OK, it can be removed and installed on the replacement rack to save your customer a few bucks. There’s no need to replace the whole rack if only the EVO solenoid valve is defective.

On GM Magnasteer applications, the whole rack must be replaced if the rack or control unit is defective because the Magnasteer unit is part of the rack. Handle with care because the permanent magnets inside the Magnasteer valve assembly and connector are fragile and can be easily damaged.

Good luck and hope this helps you understand the Steering system on your STS to save you some money on what to look for and what to look out for if your going to have a auto shop repair it. Such as the Valve is replaceable and it may just be a bad wire connection.



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  • Master 3,533 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2009
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First check it out to see if you power steering is not low and you drive belt maybe slipping if it been over 40,000 mile change the drive belt too. Michigan Man.

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A few weeks ago I was going 65 mph and it dropped down to 30. I couldnt get it to go any faster. Mechanic said it's an electrical problem and replaced the crank sensor. He said if it happens again he...

First off , he guessed. (but you asked him to.... so....)
did you do the 60k mile tune yet? if not , why not?
spark plugs,all filters? air and fuel?
Take a fuel sample, got water in fuel. is fuel and ugly color, not light amber?

first off , if you can not demonstrate the failure to a shop.
they will guess. That is a fact,
this is a lost engine power issue. (or tranny?) surely I dont know.
what was engine RPM at failure?
Ill guess at engine issues.:
lost ENGINE power can be caused by many things .
here are the macro reasons, (short basic)
1 bad engine ? (not this case, as it works most of the time.)
2: lost electrical power, the EFI system not getting full voltage
if you see the CIG power jack drop below 13v running, and for sure below 10v. the electrical main power feed is bad.
3: Ok good power is good, 13.3 to 14.7v running.
3a: are you? losing spark to one or more cylinders.? is next.
4: Bad fueling, too much or too little fuel to any cylinders.
5: bad fuel. water in fuel, diesel in fuel. etc... rust? fungus?
6: stuck open EGR. (clean it every 50k miles like the book says.
#6 is really number 0, a tune up , includes, EGR clean(RTM)
RTM means read the manual., its there.
now some questions,
when you key on, the check engine light must glow, does it?
(aka; SES, service engine soon.)
if not , fix that now.
if it glows, and goes out driving, did it come on, while driving,
(it will come on at a stall, but does it come on at 30mph failure)
yes, /no?
if yes, why not pull the errors? a scan tools costs $7 today.
never ignore the CEL lamp.

to find this problem takes hard work.
if not setup, with tools and skills to lay in a trap, to find this problem
you will never find it, tools, meters and gauges. are required.

some good shops (ask) offer to drive car to work for you.
that is , the mech takes it home and drives it every day for you.

he then finds why it fails, using 2 things.
a scan tool connected driving, (looks for DTCs and pendings)
and one more tool. lets explore that....

1: a real voltmeter connected to the IGnition EFI/ECU/PCM fuse.
he sees 14.7v at the failure. ok , it's not E power.
2: he then has his fuel pressure gauge connected.
(we have a wireless gauge, that allows save pressure readings
in the cab)
he sees the 30mph failure, and notes pressure was 30psi at the failure
that is GOOD pressure, next.
3: he then monitors. spark while driving, I tape a timing light to the
windshield (sunny day) and trigger taped closed, did spark fail?
Did i get P300s. DTCs? from my scan tool>? (misfire)
or p340 or p0355, or simular?

The ecu/PCM can in fact got to limphome mode, (failsafe,etc)
this happens when a major sensor fails, or ECU gets lost.
The scan tool will let you know when that happens.
Limphome can be 1/2 engine power on many cars.
pre 1996 are far worse.
TRANNY (the Transmission ,or gear box) A/T.
now ,lets talk tranny, were you in the top gear when power was lost? did you know the tranny might fail and down shift and limit
full power, so what was the RPM at 30mph , (and you have right foot to floor, at WOT?
) ? btw 2 the tranny brain too, has a limphome mode..
and will limit gears. or freeze in one gear.
depends on year, and tranny options.

ALl machines. if it is not broke you can not fix it.
that is a rule for all machines.
but if there are DTC's stored, you can make some guesses.
say EGR failure. well fix that first.
if there are no stored DTCs in the ECU then there was (is) no evidence, and with no evidence, all actions are just guessing.
id have pulled fuel sample when i say the DTCs at zero.

imagine buying $1000 in sensors or more labor , and it was bad fuel. IMO !
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