2003 Toyota ECHO - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check ALL fuzes

twist the fitting should come apart maybe tight

sounds like its the mass air flow sensor

check the wire to purge vsv. it has to be broken

You cannot make the check engine light go off by replacing or removing a fuse. You need to fix the problem that is causing the light to come on. It might be as simple as replacing the gas cap. I would take the car to AutoZone or another auto parts store and have the trouble codes read. The store will usually give you a printout of possible problems associated with the code(s). If you want to spend the money you could buy a code reader and read the codes and then clear the codes which will cause the check engine light to go off for a short time (maybe long enough to get theemission test done if you're lucky!).

You can buy an inexpensive fill kit with a gauge on it. It hooks to the "LOW" pressure side of the system (grey cap near the dash on the passenger side) if you look just about where the fender well is under the hood, you can see another smaller grey cap. This is the high side. There is a little window there that if you see bubbles in it, it needs Freon. Hope this helps.

code p0442 refers to evaporative emission (EVAP) system--small leak detected====causes hose connection/s---intake leak--EVAP canister---EVAP canister purge valve it also refers to evaporative emission system --large leak detected (fuel cap loose/ off)===causes---mechanical fault--hose connection/s--EVAP pressure sensor.

This code indicates a catalyst problem. Most likely the catalytic converter is bad. You could replace the Oxygen Sensors which might solve the problem. Other Possible Causes: - Three way catalyst converter Bank 2 - Exhaust tube - Intake air leaks - Fuel injectors may be faulty - Fuel injector leaks - Spark plugs may be faulty - Improper ignition timing - Engine Control Module (ECM) Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0430_toyota.html#ixzz34WdYhjJ5

The flasher relay is located to the left of the steering column under the dash plugged into the upper right hand corner of the fuse and relay center.

Didn't Toyota have a recall on some models for brakes? Check the recall website. I get the impression there is a problem with the brake servo as in it works one minute, brakes are good, then there is a lack of servo assistance, brakes are hard. Locate the brake servo behind the brake master cylinder. See the hose running to the inlet manifold? If this has any wear marks, chaffing marks, it could be leaking vacuum, (the servo is vacuum not pressure), and need replacing. It has to be the correct type of hose to resist collapse when the vacuum is created otherwise you would have no brakes at all and the pedal would be hard all the time. Check the manifold connections at the same time. There is a chance the hose is partially blocked or damaged internally and only replacement with a new piece will do. Don't drive it until you have eliminated the problem, it could be your life.

Hi . Brake booster or master cylinder so try the foot brake with engine off ,pedal should be hard now rest your foot on brake pedal and push down and start engine and the pedal should go down about 3cm if it goes down but the car still rolls then you have a master cylinder problem. Answer go to the brake people as your life is in danger.

replace the master cylinder as you have bypass occurring past the piston rubbers

follow this u-tube link , not the exact vehicle but will be the same for your vehicle Toyota Lower Control Arm Replacement

have the OBD codes read as there are a few things that will cause your symptoms this will pinpoint the sensor/switch etc saving time and money searching around

I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY MILES ARE ON THE ENGINE. Found no bulletins for noise concern Intake tappet clearance should be .006"-.010" and Exhaust clearance should be .010"-.014"

it just cips of or it may have 1 or 2 screws to take off

You can buy refrigerant R-134a at any parts store.

The causes and remedy for brake jamming: As a first aid, loosen and then tighten any one of the front wheel bleeding nipple. This will free up the brakes. - Front calipers pins jammed. (Re-grease the pins with graphite grease) - Front calipers pistons jammed. (Remove the caliper one by one, do not remove the brake pipe, depress the brake pedal only one time then release, lift the caliper boot at one side with abrupt tool, just as we lift up our eye lid with thumb and index finger, pour few drops of brake oil DOT 3 into the boot, push back the piston to allow the caliper to fit on pads. - Rear wheel's pistons jammed. (Free up the pistons, inspect the brake washers, replace rear wheel cylinders if brake washers are found swollen). - Brake master cylinder defective. The brake jamming problem often arises when the brake master cylinder washers swell up due to aging or using wrong grade of brake oil. In such cases the washers expand and block the return line of the brake oil. If so, replace the brake master cylinder with original one.

Never make an attempt to disassemble the throttle plate. Nothing to do with it. Simply clean it and relearn the idle speed control speed.

if you can make is squeal parked its easy to find, can you, or do so at and ASE certified shop, the belts can squeal, ever check the tension or there conditions? try belt dressing, it might work for short time (1week) and tell you it is the belts, its sold in all stores, auto.