20 Most Recent 2004 Jaguar XJR-Series - Page 2 Questions & Answers

As most likely know the engine in your Jag is controlled by a computer, when it senses a serious fault in any of the systems it monitors it can trigger a shut down with a restart, the shut down and needed restart is the same as rebooting a computer for a problem that has occurred in the system. What must be done now is to have the local dealer or a very well equipped shop run a scan of the computers memory, there will be fault codes stored for they event and warning lights. So get it tested.

did u get the car fixed?

you will need to 1st get a caliber turning set from harbor freight, it very cheap maybe 35-40 bucks...you need to raise both rear tires,crank the car put it in neutral so that the electric module releases the brakes from park position,then you disconnect the neg battery term.remove the tires, open the hood,remove the fluid reservoir cap,remove the calibers by the two bolts facing the inside,then remove the pads,then take the caliber tooland lock the two male nipples ends inside the female piston plates(u will see how the fit)now make sure the brace plate of the of the caliber tool is snug and begin turning the tool threaded side clockwise,and the bolt near the plate should be turned counter clockwise and each turn will turn the piston inside the caliber until its all the way flush with the inside of the caliber wall itself...then place the pads inside the caliber rotors are the same as removing from any other car,they may need a good tap with a hammer,some may have one alen head screw.But replace the rotors and pads.Once they are replaced,lower the car,reconnect the neg terminal,put the fluid cap back on,crank the car,pump the brakes and hold the center console lever upuntil the brake light goes off and u will hear the rear brake module engage.Hope this helps!

It sounds like a bad shift indicator switch on the shifter. Kind of a pain in the *SS to get to those console's get real brittle.

Hope you get it in gear!!!

Replacing them is fairly easy. First remove the wheel, loosen and remove the 18mm nut for the upper balljoint. You will need to hold the balljoint using a 5-6mm allen in the joint itself while loosening the nut and there will be tension on the upper arm so be careful, remove the two 15mm nuts for the sway bar link. Remove the T60 torx bolt for the bottom of the shock, remove the threaded air line, electrical connector and four 13mm nuts. Pull down on the knuckle while you swing the shock assembly out. You may also want to remove the caliper so the line does not stretch.

I have this same problem on my 2004 jag....McAllen Tx dealership want 1499 dollars to fix it! I said no.

You don't need a dealer. Where did that come from?
Go down the street to the nearest repair shop

it could be a few things but I always suggest that you check and see if the shocks are leaking from the caping because this is usually where they fail.Be careful not hit any bad pot holes at any speed...my suggestion is to 1st check the caping on the shocks...at times they will leak slowly on the caping...it will start as a weeping leak and you cant hear it....you can get some soapy water and lightly spray it around the enter deck mounts location under the hood where the air lines feed into the shocks...if you see air bubbles,then you can easily pack a towel in the leakage until you find a used shock or rebuilt one off ebay....But you fault light wont display a mil.The fault light only comes on when pressure is lost from the shock,or a static line has failed...causing one shock to be lower..The CAN will trigure a fault code as the sensor detects body uneveness..

under your bonnet you will see the back of the head light slide off the rubber boot and there will be a clip holding the glob in place

the motor is "sealed" by the factory... you need a special tool.... it does beg the question. it sounds like you are trying to remove the whole oil pan. why ??

There should be a drain plug that you can unscrew to change the oil.

Robert

i believe so... will reduce your preformance but thats about all :) hope this helps

That's 3 different ECU's. So look for a common fault. Have you had reason to jump start it before this happened? If the leads were inadvertently put on the wrong way round, this could cause permanent damage to the ECU's. If not, then I would go for an earthing fault. The engine ECU is under the passenger's footwell, trace the black cables to the earthing point, I know the earthing point for the ABS unit is right next to it on top of the chassis rail. Failing any of this, I would then get the fault codes pulled at least for the engine ECU and see what it has to say.

Sometimes this can be due to a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor, you can clean with a cue tip and alchohol.

You need to change your fluid and your trannt filter soon , Befor there a problem created. Good luck to you.