Top 20 2004 Jaguar XJR-Series Questions & Answers

has someone done some mig welding on your car and not disconneted the battery? if so its blown all the modules on the car ie blown its brains out. good luck

Hi Manuel: Is it possible to open the hood? If so, you should be able to attach jumper cables (Alternator or Relay?) to get the switches powered up. I'm assuming the trunk latch is electrical.

a dying or weak battery will also cause this. When the various electronics in these cars begin to do weird or unusual things, the first thing is always a weak or dying battery. God-Bless! put a good battery in it to see if the beeps go away.

Someone swapped your pcm in the car take to dealer have pcm codes read and pcm model and serial numbers make sure they match by vinif dont file police report

If your saying where IG stops is you turn them off then your wiper motor control board is bad

could be: switch, fuse, motor or wiring

You may have a fluid leak. The pipes are prone to leaking on that vehicle. The power steering top up reservoir is under the hood. Refer to reservoir caps for indication or owners manual.

For some cars when the brake light comes on it means that the brake fluid is in the reservoir is low. Check and refill.

check fuse..could be it...and if not maybe check connection at switch.....good luck.

As most likely know the engine in your Jag is controlled by a computer, when it senses a serious fault in any of the systems it monitors it can trigger a shut down with a restart, the shut down and needed restart is the same as rebooting a computer for a problem that has occurred in the system. What must be done now is to have the local dealer or a very well equipped shop run a scan of the computers memory, there will be fault codes stored for they event and warning lights. So get it tested.

you will need to 1st get a caliber turning set from harbor freight, it very cheap maybe 35-40 bucks...you need to raise both rear tires,crank the car put it in neutral so that the electric module releases the brakes from park position,then you disconnect the neg battery term.remove the tires, open the hood,remove the fluid reservoir cap,remove the calibers by the two bolts facing the inside,then remove the pads,then take the caliber tooland lock the two male nipples ends inside the female piston plates(u will see how the fit)now make sure the brace plate of the of the caliber tool is snug and begin turning the tool threaded side clockwise,and the bolt near the plate should be turned counter clockwise and each turn will turn the piston inside the caliber until its all the way flush with the inside of the caliber wall itself...then place the pads inside the caliber rotors are the same as removing from any other car,they may need a good tap with a hammer,some may have one alen head screw.But replace the rotors and pads.Once they are replaced,lower the car,reconnect the neg terminal,put the fluid cap back on,crank the car,pump the brakes and hold the center console lever upuntil the brake light goes off and u will hear the rear brake module engage.Hope this helps!

if your in doubt about the functionality of the suspension system a quick way to check and see if the static pressure system is working properly is totake a floor jack and raise up the opposing side that you have questions..The system stores 228ps in the retantion tank located under the spare tire.As you force the air to one side the recycle valve will release the air to lower the cars' body.You wil hear it come out,then lower the jack,then the air from the tank will refill the lost air....Turn on the car to initiate the air pump to refill the rear tank,you should feel the car raise up in the front evenly.Last but not least my suggestion is if you think another shock is leaking you can 1st check the caping on the shocks...at times they will leak slowly on the caping...it will start as a weeping leak and you cant hear it....you can get some soapy water and lightly spray it around the enter deck mounts location under the hood where the air lines feed into the shocks...if you see air bubbles,then you can easily pack a towel in the leakage until you find a used shock or rebuilt one off ebay....But you fault light wont display a mil.The fault light only comes on when pressure is lost from the shock,or a static line has failed...causing one shock to lower to be lower..The CAN will trigure a fault code as the sensor detects body uneveness..Usually when this happens you will see a fault code,but I doubt this is your issue.

did u get the car fixed?

it could be a few things but I always suggest that you check and see if the shocks are leaking from the caping because this is usually where they fail.Be careful not hit any bad pot holes at any speed...my suggestion is to 1st check the caping on the shocks...at times they will leak slowly on the caping...it will start as a weeping leak and you cant hear it....you can get some soapy water and lightly spray it around the enter deck mounts location under the hood where the air lines feed into the shocks...if you see air bubbles,then you can easily pack a towel in the leakage until you find a used shock or rebuilt one off ebay....But you fault light wont display a mil.The fault light only comes on when pressure is lost from the shock,or a static line has failed...causing one shock to be lower..The CAN will trigure a fault code as the sensor detects body uneveness..

Sometimes this can be due to a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor, you can clean with a cue tip and alchohol.

You need to change your fluid and your trannt filter soon , Befor there a problem created. Good luck to you.

On LHD vehicles, it is in the driver's foot well, under the dash, right next to the transmission tunnel. There is a little cut out and the plug is within that cut out.

It will be much easier to find with a mirror. It wasn't obvious to me by feeling around.

Replacing them is fairly easy. First remove the wheel, loosen and remove the 18mm nut for the upper balljoint. You will need to hold the balljoint using a 5-6mm allen in the joint itself while loosening the nut and there will be tension on the upper arm so be careful, remove the two 15mm nuts for the sway bar link. Remove the T60 torx bolt for the bottom of the shock, remove the threaded air line, electrical connector and four 13mm nuts. Pull down on the knuckle while you swing the shock assembly out. You may also want to remove the caliper so the line does not stretch.

i believe so... will reduce your preformance but thats about all :) hope this helps

Put 12 volts into cig lighter socket, with key on then try boot lock the centre pin on plug is usually +