20 Most Recent 1996 Subaru Legacy - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi there must be a cracked hose somewhere in the cooling system if its draining the radiator of water, i would also check the radiator side tanks as the plastic ones become brittle and small cracks appear that are quite hard to see

I am kindove wonderin if a wire did not get too close to a hot area on the vehicle melting it and creating problems I have a really good feeling it is on the drivers side under the hood thats where the wires for main components are at

hi this could be a problem with the center diff in the gearbox it may have a dodgy bearing causing binding and shuddering when it turns

Hi yes had same problem it was the plug that sits under the rear seat that supplys power to the fuel pump it had got hot and was charred inside, just cut it out and soldered wires together and fixed prob hope it helps

It could be the relay, But I don't think you have one, most starters are direct wired from the key to a solenoid on the starter, If there is a relay, it is the big fuse box under the hood, and is just a electric switch, not subject to cold. It sounds more like the terminals are filthy and the contacts are not connecting. Clean off all the wires with a wire brush and scrub the terminals with it, get underneath the connections too. Where the battery cables connect to the lead terminals, If I was up there I would be plugging in my car at night to keep it warm. It will start right up in the morning.

I have a ej25 in the back yard, I'm going to go and look at it, OK, I'm back, I found the timing mark on the crank pulley pointing straight up at the little notch in the casting, and the number one piston at top dead. The heads are out on it so I can't tell you about that. Hope this helps. I know it is hard to get in there, even to do the spark plugs, let alone the belt and water pump.

TO REMOVE SPARK PLUG WIRES USE A SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER BECAUSE PLUG BOOT PULLER MAKE IT EASIER TO REACH HARD TO REACH PLACES WHER YOUR HANDS CANNOT REACH BE SURE REPLACE PLUGS WIRE ONCE YOU REMOVE THEM.

Ok, there might be just one issue or a couple. Head gasket or cracked head or engine block, usually though if it was this the coolant would be in oil. Please try to answer each of these questions, are you losing coolant? Do you know how to bleed the cooling system? If this is a automatic, check the trans. fluid level, you may have a trans. cooler leak inside the radiator. Did you replace the thermostat, it is at the end of the bottom hose and easy and cheap to do. Make sure you bleed the system if you do this. If you do not know how to bleed it, get back to me and I will walk you through it. And by the way if the trans fluid is cloudy looking, then there may be water in it from the radiator. Ok, get back to me when you can, thanks, Andy

Mine does the same thing. I took it to a dealer, and even they couldn't figure it out because no code came up. They told me to keep driving it until it got really bad- I'm still waiting. It's getting a little bit worse, but it's still very sporadic. It usually stalls at low speeds...exit ramps, etc. There's no rhyme or reason to when it happens though. Let me know if you have any luck diagnosing- I'll do the same. [email protected]

Subarus can be challenging to "burp" Sometimes it takes several attempts to get the air out of the system. The procedure is simple. Top off the radiator, squeeze the hose a few times to help get the air out, replace the cap and start the car. let it idle or drive slowly near home with the heat on high. once the temp gauge begins to rise, if there is no heat get the car back to the driveway before the temp gauge gets half way. Shut the engine off wait for it to cool, at least 10 minutes. Then check the radiator again. If there is still air top off again and repeat. After 3 or 4 attempts if there is still air and or the coolant reservoir seems to be filling, try replacing the radiator cap. If this doesn't solve the problem, It may be a head gasket.

If it isn't turning over (you mean cranking to start??) have you checked if the battery is OK? Get someone with some jump leads to check that. If the battery is OK and you can't turn it over that would indicate a serious engine fault. I'm hoping for your sake that it's just the battery if I have understood your question correctly, because it could be that the timing belt has snapped or the engine has seized if it won't crank (seems unlikely if there was no warning like knocking noises)
I hope I have been of help

Hi,

Is it a manual transmission?

You may have a faulty release bearing in your transmission.

G.

definately not the catylitic converter. check your atf level before you really start to freak

engine compartment right hand side near the shock

hi there you have one or two things wrong i think you either have a leaky master or slave cylinder. the other option is your clutch plate and pressure plate are worn out.

You can have the airbag light reset with a code scanner but if there is a problem within the Airbag system, the light will just come back on again until you fix the fault.

could be a clog, try flushing the system!