20 Most Recent 1998 Volvo V70 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Thread Washer fluid leaking and headlamp washers powering but no water Good luck

Remove belly "skid plate air dam" cover to inspect Remove front bumper assembly to expose the guts Thread Washer fluid leaking and headlamp washers powering but no water

Most likely causes: Front wheel hubs need replaced (do both at one time) Front rotors warped or worn (change rotors and pads both wheels together) The noise from the brakes dragging or the wheel bearings humming gets picked up by the abs sensors in the hubs before you can hear them. A few hundred miles later, the problem will get worse enough to hear while driving. Wheel hub replacement best done on a lift with an enormous impact wrench.

These are interference engines. If the timing belt was never replaced and the car has over 120000 miles on it, I bet the belt broke and then the pistons hit the valves and you have trouble. Without spark plugs in, you should be able to use a large wrench to turn the engine. If there's any resistance, you probably have a piston touching a valve. What I would do is to remove the valve cover and possibly the cams, then with all the valves closed, see if I can turn the crank over. You might be able to get a small inspection camera down the spark plug holes to look in the cylinders, and maybe even with all the valves closed do a leak-down test to see if the valves are sealing. If you can get all the valves to seal, they're not bent or broken AND the pistons are sealing well (meaning, no holes in them). Then you could adjust the timing and put a new belt on it and see if it runs. Actually - that might be the best way to start. Align the cams and put a belt on, then rotate the engine to where you can leak-down test each cylinder. Any big leaks and you have a problem. A used engine might be a good idea, but I'd verify there's a problem first. You CAN get lucky and the belt broke when the engine was started and nothing got damaged.

check the brake fluid may be low .and then check for worn brake pads all 4 wheels.

your rear caliper adjustment is made by using the parking brake,if you don't use it on a regular basis it can cause the rear brakes to not work properly or at all.you need to use the parking brake regularly to avoid this.you may try working the parking brake repeatedly to try and adjust the rear brakes,if that works you may notice your brake pedal is higher or firmer.

1. Check the connector to the sensor at both front wheels.
2. Check the ABS module.

under the rear of car on the offside

well what kind of damage did it cause..

They retract just like the front caliper pistons.

check the transfer case fluid recommend replacing with FACTORY fluid the clutches are very sensitive in operation they lock up with the wrong fluid.

Get some Carburettor cleaner spray from an auto center. Take the pipe off into the air filter unit attached to the Carburettor it normally has a large ring clip around the black pipe so you may be able to use a slot screwdriver or a small ratched driver to remove. Put a small piece of cloth into the carburettor unit to stop too much contamination going back into the system . Use a cloth or paper towel to wipe off any excess oil inside the carburettor. Spray the carburettor cleaner inside the unit , Using an old Tootchbrush give it a rub to degrease the old oil and fuel. Be careful to Open up the open and closing circular small valve spray a little bit of cleanir inside and using a long piece of cloth clean any contaminated area inside the carburettor. Dont ruch this and get as much old oil and grease from inside the carburettor as you can. Taking care to remove all the bits of cloth and paper tissue . . Start the car up with the Carburettor still open to the world. With the car running and the Carburettor opening and closing spray a little more of the cleaner using the straw in the nozzle into the inside , please make sure you are standing to the side so nothing comes back out into your eyes. With the carburettor now much cleaner . Put the air pipes back on and take it for a run . At your next fill up of fuel put in a fuel addative for Engine System cleaning and this should help with the emissions.

1--Evap system hoses 2--Purge Valve 3--Check Valve 4--Air pump 5--Canister valve(some people call canister purge valve) A crack in an evap hose is the most common thing. I would definitely check the two evap canister hoses. These are easy to fine, one being the J hose, which is in a J shape, and connected to your canister and the other end to a valve. Then the Canister Evap hose, which is 18" or so long with a 4" L on the end of it. It connects to a hard plastic or metal hose that can easily be reached by removing the rear passenger side tire on a 98 S70 turbo. Check these 2 first. I found that the cracks in both of these hoses were where the clicks were or close to them(many old style clips causing this). Check these too, again they will both be connected to the canister valve that is right beside the charcoal canister on the passenger rear side.

Check your transmission fluid level. When transmission fluid warms up it expands allowing the transmission to work again. Fluid may need changed and the filter also.

Like all vehicle issues & code related issues, the code is used to diagnose the problem In this case a trans converter lock-up solenoid or internal problem WHY -- Why would you drive ANY vehicle a MONTH with any codes present or dash light lite? A trans related issue is a death sentence for a trans 1998 for me personally & I once owned a trans shop I would just pull the trans & rebuilt it-IF- it is original off the assy line, as built,never replaced since new You can try to diagnose the TCC Solenoid code & work on that IF you can get to it I have no idea what trans is in the car or it's parts location Try dragging the brake pedal while still on the gas & going over 42 miles per hour in high gear The brake switch should turn off the tcc solenoid, if it works & the valves it actuates work & I doubt it does That test will turn off the converter clutch & your rpm should go up a little I would guess the valve body in which the valve slides is worn

its uasually a square like relay under hood on small box or under dash drivers side check car manual for location or a repair manual . then replace it