20 Most Recent 1988 Volvo 780 Questions & Answers

have u tried cutting back the outer sheath of the old trunk release cable and pulling on the wire with a pair of vise grip pliers to get the truck to unlatch? if has worked for me many times for both trunks and hoods, if that doesn't work u will need to remove the rear seat cushion and back and crawl through to manually unlatch the trunk from inside.

Visit crutchfield.com. Thay have harness adapters for virtually everything. Used them many times myself and they're great to deal with.

bearing needs to be replaced.

There are a couple of things that can cause this. Check your coolant level. Do this when the engine is cold. Add if the radiator is not full. Check all hoses on the radiator and system to see if they are not collapsing. Change them if nessesary. Check your thermostat to see if it is not stuck and replace it if nessesary. Get a problem code from AutoZone or such store for free if all you have checked does not take care of the problem. DO not drive the car hot. The engine will get too hot and will damage the engine.

I just had this issue fixed after a year of pain and suffering seem to find out it is a bad park break sensor it was 36.99 at volvo and took 5 mins to fix it is located under your driver side dash behind the clutch next to the yellow air line best of luck to you my truck is a 2011 vnl 670

The code means that the temperature in the catalyst is not high enough to support hydrocarbon conversion. Some ways to troubleshoot are: 1. Replace the EGR cooler 2. Check for exhaust leaks 3. Install clean DOC and DPC 4. Check that there are no issues with the 7th injector, fuel metering block for injector, WGR cooler, the engine's wiring and DPF sensor 5. Check if the 7th injector is receiving good voltage when the car is on 6. Replace the wire harness if the issue is persistent If the issue isn't fixed now, drive down to the nearest mechanic.

Is it possible to take out that DEF injector and put it in DEF tank so you have a closed loop? Then it can use that def as much as it wants. Right?

Try disconnecting the battery negative cable at the battery for 5 minutes.

check the drive shaft for faulty u-joints . check for failed engine mounts

I would purchase a shop manual with wiring diagram as the wiring was hot wired for a reason. Usually it meand something failed and was bypassed. You will need a diagram to sort it out.

You will find what means all that fault codes here: Cummins Signature ISX and QSX15 Factory Manual Repair Servic Download... Good Luck!

Start with your battery connections and load test your battery. Then run a Fuel Pressure test, you may need to replace the in-tank fuel pump and filters.