20 Most Recent 1995 Honda Prelude - Page 2 Questions & Answers

clutch assy also uses brake fluid. Master cylinder and slave cylinder.

I would be a bit leary of the Prelude, if it's loosing anti-freeze. Could be a blown head gasket or an anti freeze leak. Honda's are generally great cars for traveling and there alot of aftermarket performance parts for Preludes. Definately investigate the use of anti-freeze.

Check the coolant level first, if it is low on coolant you'll have a surging idle. If the coolant is okay then the IACV on the throttle body is faulty. That's the part with two smaller coolant hoses attached to it.

Here you go: Curtorsey About.com

check ur battery charge if ok then ur starter must have been fried

when car won't fire, most of the time replace the distributor will work. the crank and cam sensor and the igniter are in the distributor

could be the coil in the distributor test for spark ( pull a plug ground it while someone trys to start the car. it should spark, if it doesnt replace coil.with known good.

Hi,
The Defect on these relay is a bad solder connection that can easily be fix with a solder iron. four specific spots that they crack and need to be reheat.
I did mine myself in less then 10 min
If you buy a new relay its about 200$

Since you just bought the car, I thought that you might not be aware of the instrument lighting control. I apologize if you know this:
The dial on the dashboard to the left of the instrument panel controls the brightness of the instrument panel lights. Turn the dial to adjust the brightness.
To reduce glare at night, the fuel and temperature gauges dim when you turn on the parking lights or headlights. You then adjust their brightness when you adjust the instrument panel brightness. Turn the dial up as far as it will go to return the fuel and temperature gauges to their daytime brightness.
Hope it's that simple.

when was the last time you put plugs ,wires,air and fuel filter in the car

goto walmart and get wynn's signature engine tuneup(8$) and put in your engine and run for 100 kms then have a oil change see the difference.

The parking brake problem could be rear brakes out of adjustment, a broken parking brake cable, or a parking brake cable in need of adjustment.

The ABS light mosy likely has nothing to do with your parking brake problem and will have to be diagnosed by first gathering the ABS fault codes from the ABS computer.

This may also be a warped flywheel.

1x114.3

Also fits 90-97 Accord

Disconnect alternator wiring; disconnect battery for a minute; reconnect battery & see if it starts & runs. If it works, replace alternator. If no difference, could be ECU error caused by alternator fault or carelessness with wiring when installing (spark to ECU perhaps). Check ECU codes (short the two-pin blue socket sitting loose on the transmission tunnel below the dash, switch ignition on and count any flashes of the check engine light (MIL))

It's time-consuming, as requires removing aux drivebelt (with alternator etc on it), and the cam belt. Well worth replacing the cam belt, aux belt and crankshaft oil seal while there. It's quite hard, but no special tools needed - except the Honda manual/instructions for setting up correctly (unless you mark the belt and replace exactly on pulleys).

Try the Main Relay - two relays in a small rectangular box beneath the dash, next to the steering colum, with 7 or 8-pin plug to disconnect. The two relays are used differently to start than when running - failure of one relay could lead to starting but not continued running. Look at http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay

...search for the 'EFI Main Relay title (half way down the page).

ignition switch is adjusted wrong loosen the bolts slide it away from stering wheel. if you still have problem make sure the rod for switch is moving freely with switch.if not that check to make sure you have right switch,if correct sound like you have some damaged wires.

You may have a problem with the lock cylinder istelf, they have a tendancy to become "unstaked" which causes them to jam-- sometimes they won't turn off, others won't turn enough to start.

The other problem may be the ignition switch, which is located down the steering column, under dash. The switch is governed by the rotation of the lock cylinder (key) moving a rod by way of a pinion and rack.

The switch my be adjusted or replaced without removal of the seering wheel or lock assembly.

Expect to pay $250 to $400 depending on the actual failure.

Look for loose wiring in the coil which is built in the distributor. You have to open the cap to check.