20 Most Recent 2000 Isuzu Trooper - Page 4 Questions & Answers

P0401 is EGR problem P0300 is a cylinder 3 misfire. Replace EGR valve and do a full tune-up.

test your m.a.f. semsor

Take this one step at a time: (a) Does the vehicle start when you spray Starting Fluid into the Intake Air Hose? If it does, then you need to figure out WHY it is not getting fuel. Possibilities are Clogged Fuel Filter, Bad Fuel Pump, Bad Crankshaft Sensor, Blown Fuel Pump Fuse or other Fuses too... (b) Do you have a NOIDS Light to test the Fuel Injectors? This will also help you narrow down the troubleshooting

You having a laugh mi ole china ,cars havent been fitted with rad drain plugs since the 60s ,,take the bottom hose off

you should be able to buy a used manual on Ebay

If the fluid is up -
it could be a vacume loss or the shifting module..
The shifting module is what tells it to shift - and it is controled by vacume pressure..

Hello, I just removed the 6-disc player from my 2001 Trooper. To remove it: 1) Remove the two screws above the radio area in the black faceplate 2) Remove the one screw located between the ash tray and the lighter. 3) Remove the four screws (two on each side) from the front center console cover and pull it back (you will need to shift into 2 or L) 4) Pop the black face plate off (there are some metal brackets holding it on that need some light force to pull out. Nothing should break) 5) There are two screws for the CD player and two screws for the radio. Unscrewing them will allow you to pull out the radio and disconnect the smaller CD wiring harness, then you can pull out the CD player.
When I unscrewed the CD player unit, I found that there are six plastic halos that hold each disc and move them up and down as selected. These had broken in some places and the discs had dropped to the bottom and stacked, so nothing could move...hence the clicking sound. Because there was a severe jam, nothing else could be loaded either...hence the error message. I'm attempting to superglue the pieces back together to see if I can reset it. Otherwise, I'd recommend you replace the unit (most likely what I'll do).
Hope this helps!
Ryan

Based on your description it sounds like worn valve guides. Oil will seep down the guides over night and when you start the engine the oil is burnt off. Pull a plug and look for deposit build up on the plug. Sort of a brown residue built up on one side of the plug.

valve guide seals could be bad or rings could be getting worn or could need tune up

After reading your question and the suggested solutions. Many believe it is an electrical problem, but your Trooper didn't come as a diesel and you said the engine was running and you said it wouldn't go into any gear. You heard something turning until you turned it off.If you have a manual transmission:If the clutch wouldn't allow you to shift into any gear but neutral then there are teeth broken in the transmission that won't allow the synchros to line the gears with the spinning input shaft from the clutch disc. Or it could be that the clutch itself is damaged. If you can put it into any gear and still nothing, look under the vehicle and look to see if the entire drive shaft is turning. If it is, put it into neutral, place the transfer case into 4 wheel drive and place the transmission into 1st gear. If it begins to move forward, STOP!!! Your rear axle pinion or ring gear is severely damaged. If it doesn't move, then the transfer case is also broken.If the drive shaft is not spinning, again, put it into 4 wheel drive again and see if it moves. If it doesn't, it is the transfer case, if it does, check to see if any of the U-Joints are broken.For an automatic transmission:If you can't take it out of park it's the transmission.If you can put it into reverse, Drive, or any lower gear it could be the torque converter or the transmission. If you hear a clunk when it is in gear but nothing happens, put your foot on the brake and have someone else look under the vehicle to see if the drive shaft is spinning. Yes means the rear ring and pinion is destroyed. If it isn't, then place the vehicle into neutral and push the 4WD/4WD Auto button and place it back into drive. If it moves forward check for broken u-joints, if it doesn't, then it's the transfer case.If any of the above have diagnosed the problem and you are unfamiliar with repairing drivetrains, then have it towed on a flatbed tow truck to a company that specializes in transmissions and drivetrains. Get a quote to repair it. If repairing it is worth more than the actual value of the vehicle itself then you now have a parts vehicle.Always check your options to repair the damage, sometimes replacing the entire component (transmission, transfer case, or axle) then you can replace it with a used one that works from the junk yard and replace it. Sometimes you can get a parts car for less than buying a junk yard component, make sure that the part car doesn't have the same problem. If it is more economical to repair, then you just got lucky. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_843b43f7ebebd3f5

No need to panic-this can SEEM TO be caused by a couple of things, but it is fairly simple to determine exactly what is causing this flasher circuit condition. First, turn on your flashers, however you have to do it, and walk around the truck to check that all bulbs are working (at least one on each corner). Turn signal and hazard flasher relays are thermal circuit interrupters and are current sensitive and will not work properly with too few or too many bulbs in the circuit. (This is usually a big problem when switching over to LED lamps, as LEDs only draw a fraction of the current that the bulbs do. This causes the relay to either not flash at all or flash very fast and triggers warning circuits on newer cars) If there is one or more bulbs out, they must be replaced. That being said, I doubt that alone is your problem. Here is a general automotive wiring primer aimed at the turn signal, hazard, stop, and running lights on most all motor vehicles. Hazard flashers are required by D.O.T. safety standards on all motor vehicles that may ever be used anywhere near a public road. They are also required to be able to be used without the ignition key. This means the flasher circuit for hazards is fed thru a fuse that connects straight to the battery and is energized at all times. Turn signal circuits often share the same flasher relay as the Hazards, even though the power for them is switched through the ignition key. Power for directional blinkers connects to a fuse, then the ignition switch, then to the battery. So, if you have to turn on the turn signals (is the key on?) to get hazards to work, that means they are not getting power direct from the battery, but can get it when the turn signals are on because they both use the same relay. This is usually the case on all vehicles; If 4-way flashers and turn signal are both on at once, the 4-ways override the turn signal and force all signal bulbs to flash. The turn signal never forces one side of the hazards to stop blinking. So, where does that leave us? You simply have a blown fuse, my friend. The hazard lamps fuse may also power the cigarette lighter, dome light, or other "always on" accessories. This varies with make & model, but the Hazard Lps fuse is usually well marked in the fusebox. If the fuse blows again shortly after being installed, do not put in a larger one! Try one more. If it also blows immediately, there is a problem with the wiring, or a bulb could be in wrong and shorting to the socket ground. Try removing all the flasher bulbs and trying the switch(it won't flash or "tick-tock") again. If the fuse does not blow, you have found the problem. Good hunting!

It's more to it than aligning the marks since the cam pulleys turn about three times or more to one turn of the camshaft on this engine. You need to find someone that is experienced on this vehicle.