20 Most Recent 1996 Ford Bronco - Page 5 Questions & Answers

start by replacing the brake light switch that should fix the brake lights and the comming out of park and may or may not fix the blinkers do they come on or do they blink fast or what

something is broke on the inside, not sure if its a chain driven or gear but it needs to be rebuild or replaced.

i would start simple on this and check the fuel pump relay first. there not that expensive you can try to replace if you cant find specs to test it. if that does not work then i would say its your fuel pump that went out.

Hello snake
The first place to check is the low pressure cutoff switch, on the a/c
acumulator at the right side firewall. With the engine off and the key on
turn on the a/c to low. Remove the plug from cutoff sw, use a jumper wire to make a connection of the terminals in the plug. If the comp clutch engages, the system needs to be charged(most common) or the
cutoff switch is bad. If the compressor clutch won't engage when jumped you can post again or give us a call and we'll dig deeper into the
system. But I hope this helps. Good luck.

It sounds like thr regulator has becone disconnected for the motor yet remains connected to the window. There is no overide which allows the window to go down. Repair of the regulator is the only option in this case. (A POX ON POWER WINDOWS)

how do I check to see if im getting fuel. the truck wont start, it turns over good I just cant hear the fuel pump at all

If the oil looks like it's dripping from the back of the pan, in the middle, it's probably the rear main seal, even though, it could be the oil pan lip seal. It involves removing the transmission or the engine to get to it to replace it. I would check the PCV valve to see if it's plugged. Probally are $300-500 to replace the seal.

you should only have to pull the steering wheel and upper and lower housing on the column,

NO they will not.... They have a different configuration

Have a four wheel alignement done on the vehicle. Without visually inspecting the front end I could list many items that would cause this. If the tires are in good shape thats a big plus. If the tires are old or worn on innners or outers and alignment will tell you whats wrong and why its incorrect. If tire are worn naturally replace them before going for an alignment.
Also prior to getting the vehicle aligned fill the tank up with gas. This way the alignment is done with somewhat odf a full load.

you will have to raise the engine so you can get the oil pan off

Jack up your vehicle. Take the tire off. Use a brake line wrench on the nut at the caliper holding the brake line on. You will lose brake fluid during this process and bleeding of the brakes is recommended after you do this. Once you get the line off the caliper use the brake line wrench on the top nut which holds the line to the vehicle. The old line comes out now. Reverse this process to put the new line it.

Now you need to bleed your brakes. Top off the brake fluid in your master cylinder. Have a helper sit in the vehicle. Have your helper pump the brake pedal 5 to ten times and slowly crack the bleeder screw on on of the wheels. You will see brake fluid come out and possibly some air. Have the helper hold the brake pedal down while you close the bleeder screw. Repeat this procedure until only brake fluid comes out. Repeat procedure on the other three wheels.

Hello! It sounds like you have a resistive ground...starter runs with no load, but is not being supplied with enough current to turn the motor...Using an ohm meter set on the X10 scale...Measure from negative battery terminal to engine block...And from block to body...should be zero ohms at both points...Send results and I'll take it from there...Guru.......Saailer
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

www.autozone.com in the repair info section or www.alldata.com

only place to get an assembled tailgate will be the junk yard unless u pay someone to switch everything for you

The air tempeture sensor has a plug or a boot. There shouldnt be seperate wires. If that helps you.

Follow these steps to easily remove the driver's seat from ford bronco 1) Lean under the seat and unclip the harness that connects the seat belt sensor to the seat. You may need to use a small flathead screwdriver to pull the release open. 2)Attach the Mac Tools SC620B socket to the 3/8-inch ratchet and unbolt the seat from the floor. 3)Attach the 3/8-inch ratchet to the extension and then the socket. Unbolt the two bolts towards the center of the vehicle. These may be difficult to remove from the channel, but they will eventually come out. Then lift the seat out of the vehicle. 4) Now if you want to replace only ratchet then remove the ratchet from the seat and place new ratchet and reverse the procedure.
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This is air bag code 23, it refers to the safing sensor and/or diagnostic monitor. electrical diagnosis will be required for the circuit providing voltage to the monitor and the sensor to verify the point of failure, vehicle may require a sensor or you may have a corroded wire to or from the the sensor or monitor, I suggest getting the test proceedure and doing the test or have a qualified technician perform the test as air bags can be dangerous(& costly) when improper proceedures are used!

If you mean the flasher relay, it is in the fuse box under the dash. It will probably be the biggest square relay in that fuse compartment.