Top 20 1996 Ford Bronco Questions & Answers

power lead in socket is rubbing somewhere

Is this a 4.9L engine? An inline 6? My database doesn't show a 4.9L in that model year. It does show that engine in 95. Did you visually check for spark at number 4 cylinder? For 95-- 4.9L--fuel pressure--50--60 psi. Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, see if fuel pressure will hold for a bit with everything off. Fuel--spark--compression. Some ford makes and models, ford can disable the fuel injector, if misfire is detected. I only mention this because, swapping injectors may not be conclusive? You can check for fuel injector pulse, anyway. How long since over-all tune-up? You did get a new fuel filter, if inline filter, correct?

Sounds like you lost the ground to the rear lights.

Is there lots of juice in the battery? Does it turn over well?

System too lean can be low fuel pressure, fuel filter dirty, fuel pump weak or dirty pump sock/filter, dirty/restricted fuel injectors, MAF contaminated, exhaust leaks near O2 sensor, EGR gasket or diaphragm leaking . The P0500 speed sensor code could be a wiring/connector issue or the sensor itself. Check and clean the connections first.

Auto or stick shift? If auto, when did you last replace trans filter and fluid?

it could burn up the gears or bearings

Check the alternator to see if it charges the battery. Likely you are draining your battery completely after every turn over. If there is no charge then your alternator or cabling is at fault.

need more details.... dont know from question what truck was doing to make you unplug this wire so start from the begining and tell all details that led up to problem then what have you done to trouble shoot and what did you find etc...

Is the 96 Bronco rear window a power window ?

givit a tune--new distributer cap--new plugs and cables--------also have air intake cleaned plus idle control--use a nonchlorinatd solvent sold a napa etc

Irony aside, 7 years has gone by and nobody answered. it's the engine temperature sensor it's on the top of the manifold to the right of the distributor and back just past the forward fuel injector on the rail on the driver side it's got one wire going to it like a little spark plug boot on the top of it and it's just a little brass fitting 3/4 in I think. It goes to the dash temperature gauge and then the coolant temperature is the one right above the thermostat housing tucked under the throttle body. it's a two plug sensor the other ones cheap like 15 bucks at Napa I think. But like the whole internet nobody said anything dude. the whole internet...

Probably the cheapest guess is a new thermostat. Once you install it, do not overfill the radiator as you will next want to see how the water is circulating inside the radiator when the thermostat opens. This means leaving the radiator cap off so you can take a flashlight and look inside the radiator while the engine idles. You would then add antifreeze and then put the cap back on and let the overflow system stabilize. You may have a 2 speed electric fan with only high speed operating, or the temperature sensor which sends the signal to the fan may be sluggish. Sometimes they can calcify and lose sensitivity. Using some sort of eye protection, get the engine to a rpm which duplicates where you are having problems. Some radiator hoses have a spring which keeps the hose from collapsing under load and pinching together. Give your hoses a look to see if they collapse.

It's very likely the thermostat is stuck shut. Get help finding where it is on your vehicle and replace it, also make sure there is enough antifreeze mixed with the water. 50/50 is best

Jack up the vehicle, support it properly (not to fall), grab the wheel on top and bottom and check for play on both sides. Most likely bad ball joint but could be loose wheel bearing also. Do both sides on whatever part is defective as the otherside will not be far behind as having the same thing happen.

you need to change your clutch slave cylinder if ur truck is manual gear

it has either come loose inside which is tightenable by removing steering wheel and tightening the screws or it has come loose on the outside which also our tightenable by taken off the cover

COULD BE OIL ON THE CLUTCH PLATE OR YOU NEED TO BLEED THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.

Check the sensor on top of the rear axle make sure its plugged in and the wires are not broken best guess with the amount of info given

To do this you would obviously have to disassemble the door pannelling then do 1 of the following: unscrew the window from the track its in use both hands 1 inside and 1 outside and gently lift the window and put a piece of board to support it untill you replace the motor; or do the above and use the motor from the other door to put the window up once up it shpould stay there...If its the relay then simple pop your hood and check for the same type of relay ensure that it does not control any thing major swap them out put up the window then reswap until replacment is got...the fuse box under the hood has relay marked and location to guied you. Another thing if it works please tape over the switch if you dont have central locking window button on drivers side