Top 10 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora Questions & Answers

need to replace fuel injectors

The trunk mounted 12 disc magazine changer with the Bose audio system is made by Pioneer. Mine is a bit flaky too so I try to avoid unnecessarily swapping out the CD's. Those error codes can mean anything from a defective/wrong disc type (it does not support MP3 discs), a disc being upside down, or forgetting to close the magazine loading door. It can also indicate condensation on the laser lens or a system malfunction. There may be a list of error codes in the owner's manual if you have one, I currently don't.

Assuming you have checked all of the possible human errors above, there are aftermarket sellers that claim you can adapt an aftermarket changer to the Bose system albeit with with inferior sound quality to the original system. Bose is typically well-known for it's audio quality. That being said, the other option would be to seek a repair facility that can repair these changers. There are some places on-line that repair car audio that also might be able to help.

A cheaper workaround might be to hook up a portable CD/MP3 player using a cassette adapter. Assuming the cassette player, amp and speakers are good, you would possibly still get fairly high quality sound from the Bose system.

Best of Luck!

SC442299

1996 Oldsmobile Aurora
4.0L DOHC 32V V8
Bose Audio w/ 12 Disc Changer
Autobahn Option

It may seem obvious but do not operate the engine with it overheating as this can lead to more trouble including a cracked engine block.

Low engine oil pressure is a problem because if it exists, the critical engine parts may not get lubricated properly and may fail. Since you have ruled out external leaks, here are some possibilities:

Clogged oil filter or obstruction in the system

Loose wire or faulty oil pressure or oil level sending switch/sensor.

Possible blown head gasket. This is a serious problem that might be accompanied by white or blue exhaust smoke and a burnt coolant or oil odor. Check for oil contamination with coolant. The dipstick may show a brown milky film/sludge or smell like burnt coolant indicating contamination.

Engine oil pump is possibly bad. This is a serious problem. It's usually time to swap out or rebuild the engine, particularly if it has many miles.

Possible but unlikely in this case is a problem with PCU (Power Control Unit) that runs the Information Center. PCU problems are often indicated by getting other unrelated errors on the info display or "DATE NOT AVAILABLE" for extended periods when you start the car.

You did not mention the Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light being on, but if so I would get the trouble codes read at the OBD II connector. The codes might indicate a sensor problem. Some auto stores do this for free. Either way, I would assume the worse case scenario (bad oil pump) and address it immediately. Unfortunately, due to the complex nature of the car, most things are not easy to diagnose and repair by the do-it-yourselfer. Hopefully though it is just a sensor but with a temperature rise, I would be careful.

Best of Luck!

SC442299

1996 Oldsmobile Aurora
4.0L DOHC 32V V8
Autobahn Option

replace the bolwer motor relay mounted on the fire wall the relay is stuck in the on poition.

It could be many things, heres a list of basics you could check.

1. wore or lose drive belt
2. bad alternator
3. bad battery
4. clogged fuel filter
5. bad fuel pump
6. clogged fuel injectors
7. faulty spark plugs or spark plug wires
8. check the timing
9. faulty ignition coil
10. clogged air filter
11. battery terminal connections loose or corroded.

yeah its seized up[ and they dont make a repair kit for that one either. they have at most auto parts stores an ac bypass pulley . its a bracket and pulley so you can bypass the factory ac unit and still run the factory belt. but if you decide to change the ac unit there are 5 bolts holding the unit down .have the system evacuated.loosen belt and drop down out of your way. take the ac lines off the compressor and set aside . there are two bolts on top in front and there are 3 bolts in back on top tieing together a triangle shape mounting plate , take all 5 loose and out.disconnect ac wires (snap clip) lift , lightly pry off old ac unit.set aside and reverse the procedure to install your new or salvage yard ac unit. refrigerant chargers can be purchased from wall mart ( there cheaper) at $30. roughly 2 1/2 cans will completely fill the system just follow on label instructions. its all easy to do if you can use wrenches and have a little knowledge. and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. and save a bunch of $ along the way.

Hello,

There are several problems that could be leading to an engine overheating. I will discuss some of them and you can try to act on which solutions that can help.

THERMOSTAT STUCK SHOT The thermostat, which is usually located in a housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, controls the operating temperature of the engine. It does this by blocking the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator until the engine reaches a certain temperature (usually 190 to 195 degrees F.). When this temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to circulate from the engine to the radiator.
If the thermostat fails to open, which can happen due to mechanical failure or if a steam pocket forms under the thermostat due to incomplete filling of the cooling system or coolant loss, no coolant will circulate between the engine and radiator, and the engine will quickly overheat.
You can check for this condition by carefully touching the upper radiator hose when the engine is first started and is warming up. If the upper radiator hose does not become hot to the touch within several minutes after starting the engine, it means the thermostat is probably defective and needs to be replaced.
CAUTION: The replacement thermostat should always have the same temperature rating as the original. Do not substitute a colder or hotter thermostat on any vehicle that has computerized engine controls as engine operating temperature affects the operation of the fuel, ignition and emissions control systems.


DEFECTIVE FAN CLUTCH
On rear wheel drive vehicles with belt-driven cooling fan, a "fan clutch" is often used to improve fuel economy. The clutch is a viscous-coupling filled with silicone oil. The clutch allows the fan to slip at high speed, which reduces the parasitic horsepower drag on the engine. If the clutch slips too much, however, the fan may not turn fast enough to keep the engine cool.
The silicone fluid inside the clutch breaks down over time and can leak out due to wear, too. If you see oily streaks radiating outward on the clutch (and/or the fan can be spun by hand with little or no resistance when the engine is off), it means the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. Any play or wobble in the fan due to wear in the clutch also signals the need for a new clutch.


EXTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS

Leaks in radiator or heater hoses, the water pump, radiator, heater core or engine freeze plugs can allow coolant to escape. No engine can tolerate the loss of coolant for very long, so it usually overheats as soon as a leak develops.
A visual inspection of the cooling system and engine will usually reveal where the coolant is going.
Leaks in hoses can only be fixed by replacing the hose. Leaks in the water pump also require replacing the pump. But leaks in a radiator, heater hose or freeze plug may sometimes respond to a sealer added to the cooling system.


WEAK OR LEAKY RADIATOR CAP
If no leaks are apparent, the radiator cap should be pressure tested to make sure it is holding the specified pressure. If the spring inside the cap is weak (or the cap is the wrong one for the application), the engine will lose coolant out the overflow tube every time it gets hot.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAK
If there are no visible coolant leaks, but the engine is using coolant, there may be a crack in the cylinder head or block, or a leaky head gasket that is allowing coolant to escape into the combustion chamber or crankcase.

EXHAUST RESTRICTION
In some instances a severe exhaust restriction can produce enough backpressure to cause an engine to overheat. The most likely cause of the blockage would be a plugged catalytic converter or a crushed or damaged pipe. Checking intake vacuum and/or exhaust backpressure can diagnose this kind of problem.

BAD WATER PUMP
In a high mileage engine, the impeller that pumps the coolant through the engine inside the water pump may be so badly corroded that the blades are loose or eaten away. If such is the case, the pump must be replaced. Most pump failures, however, occur at the pump shaft bearing and seal. After tens of thousands of miles of operation, the bearing and seal wear out. Coolant starts to leak out past the shaft seal, which may cause the engine to overheat due to the loss of coolant. A sealer additive will not stop this kind of leak. Replacing the water pump is the only cure.
CAUTION: A leaky water pump should be replaced without delay, not only to reduce the risk of engine overheating but to prevent catastrophic pump failure. If the shaft breaks on a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the fan may go forward and chew into the radiator ruining the radiator.


INOPERATIVE FAN MOTOR
On most front-wheel drive cars, the fan that cools the radiator is driven by an electric motor. A temperature switch or coolant sensor on the engine cycles the fan on and off as additional cooling is needed. If the temperature switch or coolant sensor (or the relay that routes power to the fan motor is bad), the fan won't come on when it is needed and the engine will overheat. Likewise, if the fan motor itself is bad, the fan won't work.
The system needs to be diagnosed to determine where the problem is so the correct component can be replaced.

Also check if you are not having a blockage in the coolants hose.

Take care and good luck

Hi.

If the car is not overheating, the fan starting only with the AC on can be normal.

If the fan does not start Unless the AC is on even when there is overheating, check the following:

• 60Amp fan fuse under the hood.
• Fan relays (about $10)- There are three of them, one is on for slow speed and the three of them are enegized in high speed. Replace it or swap em, or better test them using a volt meter. A good relay will show 12V on two of its contacts when energized.
  
• Radiator thermostat- it must open the circuit at determined temp (about 220F), or may cause the problem described.It can be tested using an Ohm meter. This is the most common fault resulting in the problem you experienced. Check if with thermo disconnected fan comes on. Keep fingers away from the fan while disconnecting thermostat connector.If it does, then the thermo. may not be opening at temp.
  
• Variable speed fans- If the fans do not run at determined speed because faulty you may get what described. Fans are tricky to test. Jump them using fused wire, if one of them is shorted the power draw may damage more parts.
  
• Check AC is working correctly and cooling. Check that refrigerant pressure is OK (between 190 and 240 psi).
• Check grounding. Check also AC and PCM connectors.
  
• The PCM itself may be damaged

Hello! Lets check fuses first...If all prove to be good the ignition switch may be defective and needs to be replaced...(all inside front fuse box)...IP3 (10A)...IGN1 (10A)...PCM (10A)...(Rear fuse box)...IP1 (10A)...Lets hope it'sa fuse and not the ignition switch, they are rather expensive...If the fuses are OK. We could save some money for you if you have a multimeter and a wee bit of experience using one...I'll facilitate and we'll troubleshoot it down to a component....Guru..Saailer

Ignition switch for two door:

ACDELCO Part # D1482D...Cost=$150



Ignition switch four door...

ACDELCO Part # D1438F Cost $ 270

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check the fuses. they are under the back seat just pull up on the lower part of the back seat and it will come out. fuse box is on the drivers side. check to see if water is getting in that could be the cause.