Top 20 2007 Volvo S60 T5 Sedan Questions & Answers

Take it to someone who can read the car codes with VADIS. I have a feeling the Fuel pump sending unit otherwise known as Fuel pump control module (PEM) has a low signal, and is starting to fail. A regular OBDII could pick it up even if you do not have a CEL. Low signal interval could cause the sputtering crank but no start condition. Were all the fuses checked? Fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail could also be looked at. OBDII or VADIS can reveal the issue. Just something to look at. Steering issues sound like another issue, could be the pump pulley seizing up? Any sounds coming from the steering pump?

Hi. Yes. Bad suspension leads to longer braking distance and really bad stability control while turning or breaking. Usually should be replaced over 80 k depending on mark and model. I don't really think this is suspension problem, a specially on the rear The poping noise is very likely lower control arm ball joint. I'm not sure if your model got axle on the back or control arms but if you have a control arms I would check ball joint. When they bad car feels unsafe. U can usually hear the noise when u drive over the hole in the street. Your wheel drops in to it and on its way up make this noise. Let's start with this first. There are other things but you have to check ball joints first.

B sure to check the wire oink to the starter for corrosion and check the ground under the hood also your problem is one of those okay thanx Chris

The engine light on means codes have been set. Read the codes and you may find an answer. Many parts stores will read the codes for free.

I've got issues with my FM reception but the CD and other components have been rock solid since 2006. Check the amplifier unit under the front passenger seat. there are several cables under there that could get damaged by the seat moving up and back with something stuck under the seat. I think there's also a preamp behind the glove box that may have some audio connections.

code p 0109 refers to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor barometric pressure (BARO) sensor ---circuit malfunction===causes --wiring short to ground --short to positive --poor connection---MAP sensor ---BARO sensor ---ECM code p 0070 refers to outside temp sensor --circuit malfunction===causes --wiring ---out side temp sensor ---ECM code p 0072 refers to out side air temp sensor ---low input ===causes --wiring short to ground --out side air temp sensor -- ECM In my reference books (auto data 2012) thee is no reference to an ABA hydraulic control assy so find out exactly what it does and where it is as it has not reference to the codes you stated I suspect that it is an ABS which works the brakes and they are around that price but your codes are in no way connected to that unit May be it is time to get an accredited service shop with experience on your make of vehicle to give you a second opinion on what is wrong if you get my meaning

Easiest is a dealer followed my ebay

Yes, you will have to change the bulb from inside the engine room.

not sure where you located but if you take your key to the dealer they can provide the correct key programed to your vehicle. hope this helps

Sorry, the remote will need software from Volvo to get your vehicle to accept it. The only way to do this is through Volvos' Vida system. There are some independant repair shops that have Vida, and may charge less than the dealer.

Only the dealer can do it with their computer tool called Vista.

lock and tumbler is frozen or key is bent or worn

Volvo,is a premium leader in perfection,and very dependable.Although subaru is also,I have had some problems on here to solve ,very little with volvo,mostly older models,and minor things.Volvo has a good reputation ,on all aspects,and the subaru is pretty good also,but the money,well,to me,it is like steak,and hamburger ,or not that bad,maybe ground round,But this is a volvo ,for a lot less money,even a year older,you still ,I believe ,are better off .Volvo,is a better built car,just have it checked out ,and if it checks out fine,then I would go for the Volvo,You had one,and you will be more familiar with the product,and you would be getting into unfamiliar territory with the forester,so,there you have it.I hope I was helpful,somewhat,if so,please let us know,thank you.

not sure here but it could be either a pipe leaking around the tank area or something wrong with vapour return .need to lift it up and have a look

sounds like a bad earth

like honey

I am possitive that this particular vehicle uses a cartridge type filter it is under the hood and you have to remove part of the air intake duct. Looks like a black cap with a hex shape head on top to remove it it is either a 32 or 36mm. socket is required to remove

No this is NOT Normal, The Tumblers in the Lock Are Wore Out and , My Advise Is for you to Replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder ASAP as it is Possible for it to STOP WORKING all Together thus Leaving you Possibly Stranded Somewhere.


Parts Information Ignition Lock Cylinder 8626375 $256.07 Part OEM Part# Price (DEALER) Ignition Switch
Lock Cylinder
Skill
Level Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder

Replace B 0.8 LABOR 1.1 Hour

Its Better SAFE than SORRY Situation

Upper brake light works fine, lower brake lights don't work at all, with CHECK BRAKE LIGHTS warning every time you step on the brake:

In the trunk, remove the fuse access panel on the drivers side.

The fuses are on the left, and on the right is a black board with a number of square, rectangular and flat (card?) switches that plug into the board.

On my 2001 S60 T4, there are four flat card switches near the top; one by itself, then a space, and then three in a row (see below):

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When I began pulling the bottom one out, the lower brake lights worked and the warning went out. If I re-seated it completely the problem came back, but if I wiggled it out just a bit the problem goes away.