Frigidaire Hardware & Accessories - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Parts are shown here: http://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/index.php?cPath=64685_78487_79397&s=BJ424s&n=95&pcid=2131271 The part is number 31. It is in the back of the unit. Look for the exploded diagrams

REMOVE BOTTOM FRONT TRIM UNDER FRONT DOORS
THE TIMER I BELIEVE IS ON THE LEFT SIDE YOU WILL SEE TWO PHILIP SCREWS REMOVE AND UNPLUG THE WIRE HARNESS FROM TIMER AND VOILA!

This applies to most washers:
Loss of power to a drain pump and /or drain valves can usually be traced to two main problem areas:
1. Faulty timer (aka rotary control) units
2. Discontinuity due to wire fatigue or loose connections.

Fault finding of #1 can be difficult, particularly if the person doing the fault finding does not have the necessary tools, and does not understand machine logic or the steps that create the whole.
Fault finding in the case of #2 is somewhat easier, since visual and/or manual inspection is a great aid. However, a multimeter is still an almost indispensable tool and allows easier fault-finding and diagnosis.

Your machine might have a blocked water level sensor or sensor tube.
Many machines have independant sensors for when the water level is full and when empty.
After the wash cycle, if the machine just continues to try to pump water out (even when empty), then it's most likely a sensor problem.
Sometimes, the sensor also has a breather tube, and if this clogs with fluff / debris, similar symptoms esult.

Hi,

I have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...

Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online

A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers...

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working

Dishwasher Maintenance

Dishwasher Residue and Film on Dishes

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "explanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes
=-=

YOU HAVE SOME FLT THEETH ON ONE OF THE GEARS. pROBABLY CHEAPER AND EASYER TO REPLACE THE WHOLE tIMER.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Actually... You may have bought the incorrect part to repair your refrigerator. The symptom your describing is most often caused by the defrost heater element itself being open. (<-Burned out) The reason I say this is your unit is shutting off.... starting the defrost cycle... but NOT terminating the cycle until the compartment reaches 60 deg F. The fact that it restarts at 60 Deg F is telling you the defrost timer control AND the defrost bi-metal 60 deg F thermostat are both working normally. I would bet if you removed the evaporator coil access panel in the back of the freezer compartment that you would immediately notice the heating element in the glass tube UNDER the evaporator coils has failed or... one of the wires on the end of the heater has failed. It is not difficult to gain access to the evaporator coils. You remove all racks in the freezer compartment and ALL of the screws including the one usually under the light cover and the panel is pulled toward you from the TOP. To remove the light cover there are 2 tabs on one side of the plastic cover that you gently squeeze the cover to release it. The problem can be the defrost timer but... as you described the symptoms; I seriously doubt it.
If in the future you need more assistance PLEASE respond with your MODEL number so we can discuss exact repair procedures applicable to your unit.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Well the timer could be defective. But believe it or not a clogged dryer vent can do some of the same things. Without air flow, the heater will heat, then when it doesn't circulate and and dry clothes, it gets hot and the hi temp overload near heater should turn it off, then when it cools it will start the same cycle over. Make sure you have good air flow coming out of the vent outside. If in doubt disconnect hose from dryer. Make sure to remove any lint. Put a panty hose leg over the hose and try the dryer. If it heats ok now, then you know your vent is clogged (panty hose will keep lint from spraying allover your laundry room)

its a defrost trermostat located near the evaporator coil and defrost heater coil

Check your thermal fuse. It is usually on the back of the dryer and you will not be able to see if it is bad or not. You can take out the fuse and attach a jumper to both contacts (Wire with two alligator clips) Or you can wrap the fuse with some thin stripped wire, telephone wire works great, just wrap around the metal parts on both ends then reinsert fuse. After you do this, try the dryer and see if the heat comes on. Do not run your dryer after this test without a thermal fuse, you can damage it. This is just used to test it. If your dryer starts heating go to an appliance parts store with your model and serial number and they can supply you with a thermal fuse. I think the last time I got one it was around $13.

PERHAPS YOU NEED A NEW PROGAMMER SORRY

We found this on another web site:
This was super easy. If you can screw and unscrew a nut from a bolt, its that easy.
The Knob assembaly comes as a whole. So once you remove the old knob (unscrew to the Left).

Then replace the new knob assy (screw to the Right) till its a snug fit. As you will see this knob is designed to be a clockwise rotation only - normal operation - sort of a self tightening screw.