Compressor is on but no cool air in coming into the home.. reprogramed the electrical unit in the home but hasn't made a difference, checked the filter and replaced but no change

If the compressor is coming on and the air is not cold, it could be that the freon has leaked out. Easiest way to check for no freon is to take the cover off the unit and run it in cool. The high side which is the smaller line coming into the top of the compressor should be hot, and the low side which is the large line coming off the side of the compressor should be cold when the compressor is running. If there is no temperature difference between the high side and low side tubing, you have no freon. Also check for oil residue once you have the cover off. If you spot oil, you had a leak and have no freon.

If the unit is still running and sounds no different to you - I would bet that that the compressor "is not running."
The fan motor of an AC unit is the sound most people identify with - but, the compressor (which is the heart of the system) makes a different sound which is usually 'hidden' by the noise of the fan.
Therefore, many customers assume that the AC is running normally (when the fan motor is running and the compressor is not).
I would turn off all power (BE SURE IT IS COMPLETELY OFF) and then I would feel the compressor and see if it was hot.
If it's 'hot' then it's probably went off on an 'internal safety.' In which case you could leave the unit off for awhile and let the compressor cool off. While it's cooling off you could make sure the condenser coil is clean. If it's not - now would be a good time to clean it with a water hose. Note: the water would also help the compressor to cool. NOTE: try and be careful with the water hose and to not get excessive water in the wiring or fan motor.
IF the condenser coil is dirty then it's possible that - that was the reason for the compressor getting hot and now (with a clean coil) you will not have any more problems. IF, however, the unit does not cool (after cleaning the condenser) you will need to have an AC Tech troubleshoot the unit.
However, if the compressor is 'cool' to the touch that means it's off for some other reason and most likely you will need someone to troubleshoot the system. However, you could look for loose wires to the compressor or even a wire that is burnt off. If you are electrically/mechanically inclined you can repair/replace a burnt off wire to the compressor.
Also, you could check the capacitor (a large silver/gray in color device electrically connected by wires to the compressor) and see if it's bulged - in which case you can assume it's bad and needs to be changed, which may solve the problem.
hope this has helped.

First check if the fan is running. If the fan is notrunning is the compressor not running also, if neither is running the possiblereasons are 1, no power to outside unit, 2.bad contactor on outside unit, isthis buzzing if it is this indicates no power, 3 bad capacitor, do bothcompressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more, 4 high pressure switchhas shut unit down because fan wasn't running if compressor was running but notfan, if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out ofunit. If compressor was running and fan was not, 1 bad fan or 2 bad capacitor. Please check these followings: 1. Thermostat checks i) Is thesystem selector switch in the "Cool" position?
ii) Is the temperature set at least 3 degrees below current room temperature?
iii) If your thermostat is electronic, are the batteries charged?
iv) Some forced-air furnaces have a switch on the thermostat that allows you toturn the fan on independently of the furnace or air conditioner. This switchwill be marked "ON" and "AUTO". Does your thermostat havesuch a switch?
v) If the answer to the above is Yes, listen for the furnace fan coming on. Ifyou cannot hear the fan, go to one of the supply registers and see if you canfeel any air coming up. Is the furnace fan operating?

If everything seemsfine with the thermostat, the next step is to make sure there is power going tothe furnace.

2. Electrical checks

(A) Items to check at the furnace i) Your systemmay be equipped with an emergency shut-off switch for the furnace. If so, makesure it is turned ON. In most homes, the emergency shut-off switch looks justlike a regular light switch and will be located close to the furnace. (Tracethe wire from the switch to the furnace to make sure you have the right switch.)It is quite common for this switch to be turned off accidentally. If the switchis ON, but the fan still doesn't operate, proceed to the Items to check at theelectrical panel.
ii) Some heating systems also have emergency cut-out switches that are activatedwhen a door or service panel is removed. Often the furnace door is not replacedproperly after a filter cleaning and the cut-out switch will prevent thefurnace from coming on. Check to make sure all access doors are properlysecured and fitted. (B) Items tocheck at the electrical panel i) Thebreakers for the air conditioner and the furnace should be in the"ON" position. If a breaker has been tripped, it will be in aposition between ON and OFF. To reset, turn the breaker all the way off and thenback on. If you have fuses instead, make sure the fuse hasn't blown. If it has,replace it with the same-d fuse. If you havedetermined that there is power to the furnace but you are still not getting anyheat, select your heating fuel type from the list below and continue with thechecks. If you have discovered that the furnace is not getting any power, callyour service contractor. (C) Items tocheck at the air conditioner i) Somecentral air conditioners are installed with a switch, or electrical disconnect,mounted outside to turn off the main power to the unit. Whether or not you havesuch a switch will depend on the electrical code in your area. If you have adisconnect switch, check to make sure it is in the ON position.
ii) Is the fan running on the unit outside? (If the fan is running, you havepower to the unit.)
iii) Some air conditioners will make a little buzzing sound, even when they arenot running. Have you ever noticed this before? Can you hear it now? Summary: Ifyou have determined that there is power to both the furnace and air conditionerbut you are still not getting any cool air, continue with the checks in thisguide. If either the furnace or air conditioner does not have power, call yourservice contractor. (D) Icechecks i) Is thereice building up on the pipes connecting the furnace to the air conditioningunit outside?
ii)Touch the plenum (this is the sheet metal box that comes off of the furnace;the evaporator coil is inside). Does it feel very cold? If it does, theevaporator coil may be frozen and you'll need to call for service Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

It probably hasn't been serviced in a while. You need to check the outdoor coil and make sure it isn't stopped up with dirt. Let me give you a good website that will take you through a typical servicing of an outdoor unit. Also make sure you change filters in the indoor unit. If you do all this, and it still doesn't cool, you will need someone to check the refrigerant. Here is the website: www.familyhandyman.com

Hope this helps let me know if I can help you any more. Mark

to me it sounds like filter are dirty, need to be cleaned or replaced, home systems, packaged or otherwise are hermetically sealed and should not need freon recharge. Always start with airflow and/or unit being set too low. An AC unit of any type will build ice if a) the filter is plugged up and can't move enough air, b) it has been run without the filter, clogging the coil, again, not moving enough air, c) setting an AC unit below 68 degrees F will almost ALWAYS cause icing, and d) running a standard AC when it's warm inside and cold outside (unless equipped for "low-ambient operation"). When in doubt, a bit of maintenance(thorough cleaning) by someone with AC skills can cure a b, common sense will cure c d.

Reply

Any refrigeration unit 'can' leak, and 'no' that does not 'usually' mean you need a new unit. "Never say Never."

Actually, a 'refrigerant leak' is a fairly rare occurance and I would suspect that you probably do not have one.

You say 'the compressor seems to be working.'

Is it running?

Note; a good way to tell if the compressor is running is - by hearing it's distinctive 'rumble sound' when it's running - or by feeling of the compressor with (a) a screwdriver pressed against it to feel the viberation or (b) by holding your hand (be careful if you do this - it could be hot) against the compressor to feel if it's running or not. NOTE: ALWAYS BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL PUTTING YOUR HANDS INTO AN AIR CONDITIONING UNIT THAT HAS "LIVE POWER."

Once you've established that it is running - you can 'kind of sorta' determine how well it's running by the 'coolness' of the air coming out (which you've already said was not cool) or by feeling of the suction line (the bigger of the two copper lines going into the compressor/usually wrapped in black insulation). The suction line should be 'cold' to the touch (note: if it's wrapped in insulation - just peel back enough to get your fingers on the line to feel how cold it is).

I'm guessing your compressor is 'not running' and you are thinking it's running because the fan motor is running and hiding the distinctive sound of the compressor.

If it's not running then you are dealing with an 'electrical/control problem, or an internal (mechanical/electrical) problem with the compressor, in which case you will probably need to consult with an Air Conditioning serviceperson.

If - the compressor is running 'and not cooling' then you probably do have a leak - which also will require a serviceperson to 'find the leak and repair it - and then re-charge the unit.

Note: Things you might do "if the compressor is not running."

1. turn off all power and check for 'wires burnt off any connections - especially the compressor terminals.'

2. make sure both coils, (evaporator/condenser) are clean and you have good air flow
across both of them.

3. make sure your compressor - capacitor is good. Note; about the only way you (layman) can determine this is 'if it (capacitor) is 'bulged.' If it is - then chances are it's defective.

How is the temperature of the air coming out of the unit?

If after reset the A/C cools then the fault seems related to the thermostat or the cut off pressure switch or load cut off.
However is there is no cooling at all the compressor and the gas pressure- check for leak if gas is absent.- must be checked .
If compressor is suspect you must check the estimate and decide whether it seems better to scrap and buy a new one.

Susan, if the filter hasn't been thoroughly cleaned or replaced recently. That may be the problem. The unit is straining to take in fresh air to be cooled.

Hope this helps you to troubleshoot the problem. Please let me know. Thanks

Check the outlet that it's plugged into, to make sure that the outlet is still active and a circuit breaker in your home's breaker panel hasn't been tripped. If nothing else, plug the unit into another outlet, that's on a different circuit.