Sounds as if the blade is dull. Or perhaps bent. A dull or bent blade blade will 'grab' the wood, rather than cut it, resulting in binding, or kickbacks.
Solution; replace the blade with a fine-toothed, good quality blade. If the blade is new, then check that the blade is bolted tight on the arbor. If the blade is loose, it can result in kickbacks.
Also, check that all the bolts/fasteners/locking mechanisms on the saw are tight, and in good working order. Sometimes a tool new out-of-the-box will have loose screws/nuts/bolts that need to be tightened up.
Also, when cutting, use a smooth, slow, motion, being sure to give the saw the time it needs to make the cut.
Testimonial: "Thank you for the the answer. I will try tightening the screws. I will check the blade also. "
i owned a makita LS1016l last year, had it for 2weeks, was great for cutting finishing timber but as soon as you went throw framing 90x45 she kept going backwards, makita had 3 goes at fixing it, 3 months later i got my money back, and went back to german gear, never touch a makit ls1016 unless your going finishing, then you should look at the kapex 120
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The problem could be with the wood. If so, you can minimize the effect by locking the slide travel so the saw only functions as a chop saw.
Also, make sure the table is free of sawdust before each cut. A smooth cut requires each tooth on the blade take the same sized tiny bite out of the wood as every other tooth. It the wood isn't firmly against a rigid back stop, then what would normally be an extra minor resistance between a tooth and the wood every now and then, can be amplified as the sawdust behind the wood gets compressed aginst the fence and the saw tooth digs in too deep before it starts cutting. The effect is like trying to quickly put your pants on when your foot is wet.
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