The metal bar that runs down between the fridge and the freezer is very hot. The fridge and freezer still work.

either the return air grill(small grill on the inside wall of fridge) is blocked with a loaf of bread or something, or it's the freezer drain is blocked, some fridges use the drain as a return air vent,after unpluging it from the power point, defrost the fridge a remove the back wall plate (interior) of the freezer , & push something down the drain line like whipper snipper cord etc. then poor really hot water down it, check the drain at the back of the fridge for water running, reassemble the fridge pug it in & you should be sweet

You have an ice block if the fridge is not cooling and freezer somewhat is. There are a few options you have. First off the bi-metal defrost thermostat has to be replaced. This may be your only problem. The other two things you can check one it your heater. Once you remove the ice to can test the heater for continuity. The other is your defrost timer. Unfortunately you have a computer board that is your timer. You cant test this but you can see if it is working. If the box shuts everything down the fans in freezer and the compressor for 8-30 minutes than kicks everything back on chances are your board is fine. Now to fix your problem.
Option 1 only use if you have a backup fridge to put everything in. Transfer all your food to backup fridge. Unplug fridge for 48-72 hrs with doors cracked open and have towels surrounding the fridge for all the water. Remove back panel in freezer to check for ice block. **Remove back access panel and at the top of coils is your bi-metal. It has two wires going to it. Replace. Now to test the heater you will see the wires to the heater if you have a glass heats there is a pink and blue wire that run down your coils to the heater. Remove the heater and test for continuity. If you have a bar heater you will see two wires running up along the side of coils. You have a bar heater on this icebox. Chances are the heater will still be good. Now once everything is back together than give it a couple hours for temp to get back down before moving your food back.** If you have not heard the box shutdown. Dont put you food back yet give it three days and than check for ice buildup. If I block is forming again replace defrost board if not than it was just your bi-metal.

Option 2: If you dont have a backup fridge. Follow most of steps above once Ice is melted. Get a couple bath towels and a hair dryer. Now remove freezer access panel and with box unplugged start melting all the ice and letting a mojority of the water fall onto the towels. Now once all the ice is melted Take flashlight and look between all the coils. Ice can be hideing and your will have problems again. Now do everything between aristcrats above. Now if you have not hear the box shutdwon your board maybe out. Hopefully its just your bi-metal.

If you have a more question or need further assistance please reply.

You have an ice block if the fridge is not cooling and freezer somewhat is. There are a few options you have. First off the bi-metal defrost thermostat has to be replaced. This may be your only problem. The other two things you can check one it your heater. Once you remove the ice to can test the heater for continuity. The other is your defrost timer. Unfortunately you have a computer board that is your timer. You cant test this but you can see if it is working. If the box shuts everything down the fans in freezer and the compressor for 8-30 minutes than kicks everything back on chances are your board is fine. Now to fix your problem.
Option 1 only use if you have a backup fridge to put everything in. Transfer all your food to backup fridge. Unplug fridge for 48-72 hrs with doors cracked open and have towels surrounding the fridge for all the water. Remove back panel in freezer to check for ice block. **Remove back access panel and at the top of coils is your bi-metal. It has two wires going to it. Replace. Now to test the heater you will see the wires to the heater if you have a glass heats there is a pink and blue wire that run down your coils to the heater. Remove the heater and test for continuity. If you have a bar heater you will see two wires running up along the side of coils. You have a bar heater on this icebox. Chances are the heater will still be good. Now once everything is back together than give it a couple hours for temp to get back down before moving your food back.** If you have not heard the box shutdown. Dont put you food back yet give it three days and than check for ice buildup. If I block is forming again replace defrost board if not than it was just your bi-metal.

Option 2: If you dont have a backup fridge. Follow most of steps above once Ice is melted. Get a couple bath towels and a hair dryer. Now remove freezer access panel and with box unplugged start melting all the ice and letting a mojority of the water fall onto the towels. Now once all the ice is melted Take flashlight and look between all the coils. Ice can be hideing and your will have problems again. Now do everything between aristcrats above. Now if you have not hear the box shutdwon your board maybe out. Hopefully its just your bi-metal.

If you have a more question or need further assistance please reply.

I suspect the warm to hot is from a heater that keeps moisture from from condensing on that bar. you don't notice it when the unit is working properly. Make sure your condenser fan is running and that condenser is clean. You may have a compressor that is failing

Heat is normal but the freezer may not be clod enough. Check temp in freezer(0 deg F or -18 C. Also check rear wall of freezer for frost . If so you have a defrost problem which will raise the temp in the freezer. Also check that the condenser fan in the rear bottom of the fridge is running and the condenser is clear,

you have to take the center bar down inside the fridge. It is the bar on top of the fridge compartment that houses the lightbulb. Unplug the fridge and unscrew the bar. There is one plug that must be unplugged, then you can pull it down. In the back is a small reservoir for water melting down from the freezer defrost, and a small tube stuck into a hole in the backof the fridge wall. pull the tube out, then flush hot hot water mixed with bleach into that hole. It will flush out anything stuck in the drain tube. If this doesnt work, you will need an external drain kit.

clean the coil behind the fridge or under the fridge (where ever they are) and make sure both fans are running, the one in the freezer and the one underneath

Check the condenser fan from the back. It's underneath near the compressor. It should run when the compressor runs.
To see if your defrost is not working take the back off the inside of the freezer to see if there is ice buildup blocking the air flow. A light frosting on the enitire coil is normal

ED5VHGXMQ10 Whirlpool Fridge
I have the same problem. Too hot to touch between the freezer and refrigerator door. Is
this normal?

My Maytag side by side is 7 years old. Bar between fridge and freezer just began getting very, very hot also? What can we do to repair? Does the condenser fan motor need to be replaced?