FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
Hi, this problem will be with either the starter for the compressor or could actually be the compresser itself. Both of these can be replaced but it is not something any one should do unless they have done this before and know what they are doing.
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The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by
manually initiating a defrost cycle. There are two methods of initiating the
ADC Test Mode. First Test Method: 1. Turn the thermostat off for 15
seconds. 2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 3. Turn the thermostat
off for 15 seconds. 4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 5. Turn the
thermostat off for 15 seconds. 6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 7.
Turn the thermostat off. In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost
heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the
bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can
be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and
waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should
immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed. If this first
test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following
procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode. Second Test
Method: 1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for
at least 30 seconds. 2. Turn the thermostat off. 3. Reconnect power to the
refrigerator/freezer. Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the
defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the
defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective
bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode
if the bimetal is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to
the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds. HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test
Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn
on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click. • If the relay clicks
one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost
heater. • If the relay clicks two times, check for an open
check to see if it is level front to back and side to side if not level the ice maker can run over the back and down on coil, you can use a hair dryer to defrost it s quicker. if digital set refrigerator to 38 degrees. you may have problem with defrost control.
Hi I t seems like the Defrost timer is not working or is stuck. It could also be the defroster coil but probably not. The timer is located in the front of the refer where the toe kick is . remove the toe kick, check for a square or rectangle box with a big plug on the back. that is probably it. Check with the appliance zone online you need the Mod. # for the parts blow up. look for the defrost timer on the print. that will also show where it is located with a part #. you can then price it out . It is not too hard to install be sure to unplug it before removing any wiring.
Good Luck, Bill
just connect the lines in the fridge filter to each other
There are very good ceramic filters available for domestic water supply that can be fitted anywhere in the supply line to the fridge or any other tap for that matter
The ceramic filters had the added advantage that beside being the filter that removes the absolute finest particle, all you have to do is every few years is to scrape off the build up off the ceramic and they are good to be reused again
While the initial ceramic filter may be expensive, the fact that they can be scraped clean every few years makes them virtually a life time investment
easiest way to tell is pop off the white cover on the ice maker,you'll see letters on the ice maker,if you get a jumper wire and stick it into T and H the ice maker should start to spin,your jumping the motor out,if it doesn't the ice maker is bad,then put the jumper into the V and the L,this should fill the ice maker,you're sending power down to the valve by doing this,if you don't hear the valve buzzing or anything and no water comes right out to the ice maker the valve most likely is bad,if water doesn't fill the ice maker,you can fill it with water and after 2 hours it should produce ice in the bucket,if it does then you know it's the valve,if it doesn't drop ice the ice maker is bad.also if i were you i would change out the ice maker anyway even if the valve is bad,the mold in the ice maker usually rots out after 7 to 10 years,you'll see specks in the ice,you can look into the mold of the ice maker to see if it is bad,you'll see all the green liner peeling out and make sure you change out the water filter at least once a year,they want you to change it like every 6 months but depending on how much water you use most times you can get a year out of them.one more thing make sure there isn't any ice built up in the fill tube to the ice maker,if the valve is bad sometimes water will drip through and it will freeze up in the line,if so melt it out with hair dryer but by sticking the jumper into the V and L should let you know if it's frozen,water should come out when you jump it if it is the ice maker.these are the easiest ways to check it or just change out both parts.