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At this point, opening the access cover is the last thing you do if it is below the water level in the pipes. Your system has a partial blockage in the pipes between the pump and external septic tanks or sewage dump site, that is the reason why when you use the plunger , half of the amount of waste water comes up to the sink and bathtub. You to open up your pipelines to remove blockage , probably tree roots in the pipes.
It is possible that a down draft venting stove such as a Jenn-Air could have been previously installed and now there is this stove that doesn't need this vent system.
What is in the room above the basement bathroom? And how large is the diameter of the vent pipe you need to run? Do you have a maximum number of elbows, and runs of feet maximum you can't exceed?
Is the Frame wall above the foundation, accessible by going up thru the ceiling of the bathroom, and the elbowing over and into the outrside frame wall at that point?-- and then up a ways, and then out thru the outside wall?
Another possibility would be: How far to a window, or vent already in the basement?-- Could you run the piping there, and then out?
How thick is the concrete wall?-- Is it reinforced Concrete-- or just Masonry Block wall? A block wall is not as hard to get thru--
I know I asked a lot of questions-- but maybe it helps you think thru your options?
Id try raising the chimney until you can get the smoke from a piece of paper to get sucked up under the draft hood. I believe theres a different problem then a cold pipe.raising the chim.might not be the answer.
My suggestion is to build up the floor where the tub will be maybe 12" above original floor and u can make a couple steps up to the tub the whole length of tub
If the sump (where you catch the water) was dry, your pump might be air bound.
You say it will not shut off but you dont say if it is pumping. My guess it is is not. You have a local switch, i.e. integral to the pump, right? Not a float switch.
Do this, fill the sump, make sure the switch opening is clear (it works on water pressure) and make sure there is no air trapped inthe pump housing.
I hope this helps.
In my bar situation, I use a float switch and I pump up about 2 feet where the water goes into a stand pipe equipped with a vent. The stand pipe feeds into a hose and leads to a sump elsewhere in the basement where the water is pumped over the side (sorry, that was the sailor in me coming out).
If you cannot vent it properly, the cheater vent will work fine. Cut in a tee wye (TY) withing that 5 feet and aim up. Cut a piece of pipe so it is at least 6 inches above the flood level rim of the washer, attach a female adapter and screw in the pro vent (cheater vent). Good luck.
Install a window mounted exhaust fan if you can discharge to the outside of the house surrounding atmosphere.But undercut the door of the batroom to allow air coming in into the room.Alternatively firt a door grill 600 x 150 mm size which is more expensive.THe size of the fan should be 50 to 100 l/s of air flow.
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