Battery problem with ETRS

Try a reset.

Press and hold the Power, Ok, and Down (or Up) buttons for about 12 seconds until you see progressing LED lights (red, orange, and green lights) on the bottom followed by "GolfBuddy" message. This reboot will revert the firmware version back to its previous stable version.

How to reset - GOLFBUDDY HELP

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Hello my friend.
It is a fuser temperature error or one of the sensors is dirty.
You could try removing the fuser assembly - ensure power is switched off- then try cleaning the sensors as they tend to get paper dust and melted toner which collects between the surface which senses the heat from the fuser `Hot` roller.
if this doesn't fix it you may need to replace the fuser.
There is also an engineer code that you can enter to clear the fault
PRESS: Clear - exposure - clear - exposure = the LED display will turn off.
PRESS: # of copy keys until you have 14 displayed.
PRESS: Enter.

It should stop advancing the film when the camera counter is on #1 exposure with or without film.

Yes, the V3800N has an exposure meter.

If the red - lights up, you're underexposed. If the red + lights up, you're overexposed. If the green circle lights up, you're right on. If both the red and green light up, you're within one-third stop of the right exposure.

If you don't see either the green or red lights, then you need batteries. The camera uses two LR44 alkalines or two SR44 silver-oxides. But the only thing that uses the batteries is the exposure meter: everything else on the camera is stil fully functional.

This sounds like it might be a defective CCD imager. If so, Canon should fix this for you for free worldwide, and may also include free shipping both ways (free shipping varies with countries). This is regardless of your camera's warranty status. Please check this link for more info.

Applicable cameras include:
A40, A60, A70, A75, A80, A85, A95, A300, A310, S1 IS, S60, S200, S230, S330, S400, S410, S500, SD100, SD110, IXUS V2/V3/300/400/430/500/II/IIs, IXY Digital 200a/300a/320/400/450/500/30/30a

Thats is odd.
When you hook everything up, do you turn on the flash last?
It sounds like the battery pack is giving the flash a different voltage then it should have causing incorrect readings and exposures.
I would send the pack back to Quantum(located in Ronkonkoma, NY) and have them check it.

Since I never use a TTL flash with my Bronica's, I'll give you my suggestion for a great solution. Using your TTL Metz flash, (make sure you've connected the TTL cord for Bronica ETRsi) take 8 shots at different apertures on A (Automatic), then take 8 shots at different apertures on M (Manual). I realize this will waste one 120 roll of film, but one negative will stand out as your perfect exposure. Yes, whenever you reduce the ISO in half, your basically overexposing the film by one f/stop. Just remember that this overexposes everything your shooting from foreground to background. With flash, this may cause your highlights to wash out, but any good lab could print for the highlights and make the background go darker. I used to shoot Vericolor at ISO 125 instead of it's rated ISO of 160. 
Fotobean

1. Find the pink Clear button on the Control Panel of the WorkCentre.
2. Find the button below the word Auto.
3. Press these buttons in the following sequence: [Clear], [Auto], [Clear], [Auto] NOTE: All of the lights on the Control Panel should go out and the LED Display should go blank. If the lights do not go out, then repeat step 3 until they do. It may be necessary to increase or decrease the pace of the [Clear], [Auto], [Clear], [Auto] sequence.
   
4. Press the [10's] key one time and the [1's] key four times to enter '14' in the LED Display, as if you were to make 14 copies.
5. Press the green [Start] button.
6. Press the pink [Clear] button two times.
7. The WorkCentre should now warm up and come to ready.
8. If the above steps do not clear the error code, repeat steps 3 to 6 a second time.

There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. If the camera can automatically set the focus and exposure, the LED by the viewfinder will turn GREEN. If the camera can not adjust the settings automatically, the LED will turn RED. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Rely on the Rear LCD Display. When in doubt, trust the LCD. The LCD will display the subject more accurately than the viewfinder. This will help with "framing" the subject, or determining if you have enough light for proper exposure. 4. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.

There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. If the camera can automatically set the focus and exposure, the LED by the viewfinder will turn GREEN. If the camera can not adjust the settings automatically, the LED will turn RED. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Rely on the Rear LCD Display. When in doubt, trust the LCD. The LCD will display the subject more accurately than the viewfinder. This will help with "framing" the subject, or determining if you have enough light for proper exposure. 4. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.