Washer went dead. replaced thermal fuse and it worked for about a week and went dead again. Before going dead it seemed to take it a long time to do a load of dishes. The last load ran 1 1/2 hours and still showed 45 minutes to go on the timer before it quit completely. Any ideas?

If it's totally dead, the main fuse may have blown. However, since it was inconsistent before it went dead, it might lead me to think that you have a loose connection. Sometimes they heat, lose continuity, and then work again when they cool. A defective thermal protector might also cause this.

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if the fuse was bad it just wouldn't work at all,it's non resetable,it will be hard to tell what's wrong now that it's working again but if the heat did go out and come back on there's a coil that runs through the heater,this breaks and then no heat but it could make a connection again,i ve found this one time out of 10 years or you could have a loose wire but it will be hard to tell until the heat shuts down again.also when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer,it should be cleaned out and blow out the vent line at least once a year.if the heat cuts out again and you need a hand let me know,also check the wires where the cord connects to the block on the back of dryer,if wires are loose this can happen.

One problem could be the thermal fuse. The hard part was taking the darned thing apart. I couldn't find the replacement part, but I did find an alternate replacement. The NTE8020 is a good substitute. I just ordered one from Mouser for $6.25.

After installation and first test all went well. The next morning however had revealed it died again.

Round two.

So by this time I'm confident the transformer is getting warm, though 130F isn't really hot for a transformer (which is the limit of the thermal fuse). So instead of replacing the fuse again with a higher value, I decided to simply install a switch in place if the thermal fuse. I only turn on the unit to make my coffee/tea so there's no time for the transformer to get too hot. It has been running great for 3 months now.

replace the main control board

If the 20A fuse is blowing, it is often the high voltage transformer or magnetron. If this is the case, and the microwave is not under warranty, replace it. Residential microwaves are generally considered disposable. Parts and labor are just too expensive. A magntron or transformer can cost more that half the cost of a new microwave.

I think you are working on the wrong end. Check the fan and inlet ductwork of the dryer, if the air isn't moving properly, it will not move enough to keep the coils and limiters cool and they will fail after working properly a few times.

check again thermal fuse that you replace maybe wattage is not enough. there a lot of protection in that circuit.

Hi

If your microwave oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these: Fuses Usually, when your microwave oven doesn't work it all, the internal fuse (thermal fuse) is blown. This fuse protects both you and the oven. When it blows, you need to have a qualified appliance repair technician replace it.

Door switch If the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work.


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Rylee

This happened to us the first time we used the self-cleaning feature. The repairman said we had to replace the whole electronic panel -- but when he put in the new panel it didn't work either. It turned out he just needed to replace the oven shutdown thermal fuse I believe. We finally got up enough courage to try the self-cleaning again and the exact thing happened. The door is locked and the electronic panel is dead again. So when we get it fixed we will never use the self-clean again.

I have, when I first bought my 02 Liberty. It ended up being a faulty ECU. ECU is the computer brain that controls the whole car. I had it replace and it never happened again.