Just got the cycle computer. The computer turns on, but no reading comes up even when you hold the sensor really close to the magnet

1. Check Sensor Placement:
   • Ensure that the speed sensor and cadence sensor (if your computer includes one) are properly installed and aligned with the magnets on the wheel and crank.
   • Make sure the sensors are securely attached and not loose.
2. Battery Check:
   • Verify that the sensors have working batteries and that they are installed correctly. Sensor batteries can sometimes run out, leading to data reading issues.
3. Sensor Alignment:
   • Check the alignment of the sensors. They should be close enough to the magnets on the wheel and crank to detect their movement but not so close that they touch.

im not sure why you would want to bypass the flow sensor , do you understand what it's purpose is?

anyways the tech side of a flow sensor is a little paddle wheel thats semi metalic plastic (dark) this brushes by a magnetic switch that a computer "counts" the switch open/closes as the wheel turns , faster the flow faster the wheel turns faster the counter counts , to by pass this you have to trick the counter to count up by a different means say like a drill chuck "it's metal" holding it close enough for the magnetic switch to "SEE" while turning is the trick

1) probably a faulty speed sensor
2)the speed sensor is not plugged in properly.
3)possibly a faulty motor control board or lower board.
4)Motor Faulty.
5)Transformer Faulty
The error codes will differ between makes and models but could be e1.

Here is how to adjust the speed sensor:

.

a)Make sure the sensor is as close as possible to the pulley without touching it.
b) make sure the sensor is aligned with the magnet.
c)There is a screw that holds the sensor in place that needs to be loosened to adjust the sensor.
d)Re-tighten the screw

See the attached diagram that I did ,and Watch how the90% of function of the treadmill is coming Main Controller Board

Your magnet sensor on the right side of bike wheel has a too large gap so it cannot pickup (read) the magnet as you cycle. All you need to do is to close the gap to about 1/8-1/16" inch and your rpms will begin being monitored again on your computer. Just use your thumb to apply some pressure on the little black plug so that you press it enough to move it closer to the gap width I mentioned and it will then operate when you cycle. If you press too much the magnet will actually rub/hit the black senso if you press to much. Just adjust the width to create the right abmount of gap and it will kick in again. Please give me a thumbs up for helping you with this solution.

Your sensor is too far from the magnet so it cannot read when the magnet goes by with each cycle. Close the gap to 1/8-1/16th of an inch gap and it will then read again. The sensors over time and when bike is moved can get pulled apart or pushed too close. Don't push too close or it will rub the magnet and that's not good, You can use your thumb to push the black magnetic sensor (pickup) closes to the gap I mentioned and then try the bike again. It may take a few times, to get the correct gap, but then the sensor should read. If you do indeed do have a defective sensor, you can get a replacement part at this fitness replacement parts place (look for schwinn and it's called SENSOR. But, try my solution first and give me a thumbs up when you get it working again with reading your rpms.:.

http://www.sportsmith.net/productsearch.aspx?dsNav=N%3a10547

First check your settings and make sure that cadence is turned on. Then:

#1) check to make sure that your cadence sensor has not moved and is still within 1-2mm of the magnet on the crankarm.

#2) make sure you still have a magnet on the crankarm.

#3) if #1 and #2 are good, does a little red light come on (body of sensor) when the crankarm magnet pass the sensor.

If all these things have been satisfied and you still do not get a reading, then you have a dead battery and you need to replace the sensor.

I too bought an older Air-dyne that is far out of warranty, and I'd been having trouble with the ergonometer showing numbers all over the place, rather than a steady reading. Please note that doing any of the following adjustments yourself will void your Schwinn warranty if it still applies. The fan was way off center, so I adjusted it straight while I had the covers off to clean, oil and adjust the chains. I also thought having the numbers at least showing on the ergonometer was a good indication and started looking at the magnet and sensor on the right side of the wheel. I had noticed that the sensor mounting bracket was loose, so we'll start there with the repair steps:

1. Make sure the sensor bracket isn't wobbling around. If it is loose, tighten up the INNER nut next to the bracket to hold it steady.
2. Very slowly rotate the wheel by hand so that the magnet passes by the sensor to ensure that they won't hit during use. DO NOT use the pedals or the arms to test as the wheel will rotate fast enough to break the parts if they do contact each other. Watch your fingers!
3. If there is contact, gently and gradually bend the sensor bracket away from the wheel far enough to clear the magnet. Test the clearance after each adjustment. Don't leave the sensor too close in case you have wobble (you shouldn't), but don't move further than 1/4" to 5/32" away either.
4. After the sensor clears the magnet, get on the unit and test the ergometer readings. I used the "Level" readings for all of my tests rather than RPMs. RPMs will vary more even when they are correct, which might make figuring out if the gap is right more difficult. I suppose they could be used if you are a perfectionist but I don't recommend it.
5. If the readings are now stable and steady, you are in luck. If not, go on to the next step.
6. I stumbled across a Schwinn reference to the gap (VERY hard to find) on the newer evolution model being 2 mm to 4 mm (5/64" to 5/32"). I assumed that wouldn't change much over the years and my results bore that out.
7. Follow the next steps very carefully - you need to gently bend the sensor in or out to about a 3 mm gap. Moving the fan wheel by hand only (and still watching your fingers!) rotate the magnet close to the sensor. Use a 3 mm (7/64" is just slightly smaller) drill for a gauge.
8. Carefully slip the solid end of the drill between the magnet and the sensor while SLOWLY turning the wheel. If it is tight, don't force it as you may break something. Instead, gently and gradually bend the bracket out until the drill just slips between the magnet and the sensor. Mine is set so that the drill was actually just supported between the two.
9. Test the readings again as in Step 4.
10. The sensor should now be set about right and the ergonometer work well. Mine is now very stable. If not, you could try very slight adjustments in or out on your particular machine. The 7/64" drill is slightly smaller than the 3 mm, so you might try bending "out" first. You can also try using other drill bits between 2 mm (5/64") and 4 mm (5/32") as gauges.
11. One more note: While adjusting mine, it appeared that the computer chip must have some means of steadying itself based on what it is receiving from the sensor. Even before I got mine dialed in, the readings appeared to converge over several minutes toward a steadier (albeit not steady enough) number. Don't be surprised if you see this too but also don't accept it as being as good as you can get. Good luck!

There really is a sensor magnet that is necessary for door lock mechanism to work. Not sure about service call charge, but if it works the he did fix it anyway

E1 on the t20 is a speed sensor issue. If you unplug the unit and wait a few minutes, plug it back in and turn it on. If the error clears and it doesn't return, you can use the machine normally. If it does come back, typically, check the following items. The speed sensor is a hall sensor (magnetic), meaning it reads a magnet embedded into the front drive roller. Take the motor cover off and ensure that 1 - the sensor is less than 3mm from the magnet. 2- the magnet is actually in the drive roller pulley and 3 - the drive roller is turning when machine starts.

E1 will appear when the board doesn't receive a signal within 10seconds of starting the machine. If all 3 variables above are met, you can check the sensor itself by unplugging it from the board, (trace the wire back and remove the molar clip from the board) and checking the continuity with a tester. Closed or 0 when the magnet is in front of the sensor, open or 1 when the magnet is moved away. If the sensor is good, within range of the magnet (reading the magnet with a continuity test is a good indicator of placement), the magnet is in the front roller pulley and the roller is turning when the machine turns on, you're more than likely going to be looking at a bad lower board. (circuit board by the drive motor),

REMOVE LITTLE BOARD FROM END OF 3 WIRE HARNESS. 3 WIRES ARE   COM   ,NORM OPEN   NORM CLOSED . 1 WIRE SHOULD HAVE X ON IT. THIS IS NORM CLOSED. DO NOT NEED THIS WIRE.  THE 2 END WIRES ARE DEAD SHORT DO NOT  TOUCH TOGETHER. JUST MIDDLE WIRE AND WIRE WITHOUT X PRINTED ON IT. IF YOU DO NOT SEE X ON WIRE JUST HOOK UP MIDDLE AND 1 END WIRE , WHEN YOU CONNECT DOOR PLUG AND TAPE BLACK MAIN DOOR SWITCH CLOSED THE RIGHT 2 WIRES WILL ACTIVATE DISPENSER .HOOK UP THESE WIRES TO A COMMON WINDOW ALARM SWITCH MAGNET TYPE. SILICONE TERMINAL MAGNET TO UPPER RIGHT DOOR FRAME ,THE OTHER MAGNET TO UPPER RIGHT FLAPPER DOOR SIDE , MAGNETS MY HAVE TO BE 1 INCH APART TO OPEN WHEN CAN JARS THE DOOR. WHEN SILICONE DRIES HOOK UP THE MIDDLE WIRE AND END WIRE THAT ACTIVATES DISPENSER  NOW YOU HAVE AN OPEN AND CLOSE WAY TO RESET DISPENSER CYCLE.  NOTE  DO NOT USE END WIRES TOGETHER    CENTER WIRE ONLY   X WIRE NOT USED.