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Anonymous Posted on Nov 10, 2010

There is not heat at all, only cold blow but i changed once the heater element less then a year ago then it was working but now again there is no heat at all and i took out the heater and see it no damage or cut wire like one i get it replaced before. I am stuck now what and where to check next as there is no heat, only cold blow. If you can tell me what part it cost this problem and i'll bye it. Please respond me back asap i am in hurry to get this fix, thanks you so much!!

  • Anonymous Nov 13, 2010

    Yes its helpful as you said that, and i have done bypass it the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat 250 F then i start to turn on let it run about less than a minute and i see it heat up. At this time i'm still waiting for both parts ordered online to come and receive. When i receive the parts and will put on then i'll let you know the result, but i am sure 100% that will fix it and its the problem with thermal cut-off (it cut-out) and high-limit thermostat as you said, right. May i appreciate and thanks you very much, Jahn27 and this Service as well.

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  • Master 1,554 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2010
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The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Electric Water Heater blows fuse, but only every few years

Your residential water heater is not 9000 watts. Or it would blow the fuse every day and melt the wire. Instead, you have dual-element non-simultaneous 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterhatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
Look at label for 'total connected watts'
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Whirlpool-energy-smart-watt-rating-IMG_2600.jpg
25 amp breaker or fuse and 10 gauge wire is minimum acceptable for 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-code-wire.html
Troubleshoot blowing breaker or fuse:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#trip-breaker
Why does it blow fuse once each year?? I don't know.
Fuses and breakers trip when overheating occurs on wire.
Each fuse or breaker is rated for heat, and over time, it will get hot and then cool and then get hot again ... this action weakens fuse or breaker.
To solve problem: install 3500 watt elements (and clean sediment out of tank). Wire will run cooler, and fuse will last longer. Whole fuse box will demand less power, and run cooler, and will last longer as a result. So there is less stress on electric service panel.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
3500 watt element will heat water to same temperature, but takes longer. For example: 4500 watt heats 21 gallons per hour, while 3500 watt heats 17 gallons per hour.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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