The controls do not operate on this unit. All the settings are frozen in the maximum position.

Return it for warranty.

If you have used it for a long time then minerals in the water may have built up somewhere and now needs to be removed wither by cycling a cleaner of some sort or physically scrubbing the moving parts yourself.  The first ting to try is unplug the machine, remove all the filters, and try cleaning with vinegar. Smells bad I know but following up by cleaning with a regular detergent should remove the smell. Detergent alone will not break up the calcium, the acid in the vinegar does that. Next we need to find out what gears may have slipped or if there is a belt out of place. If everything mechanical is in working order then the cam from the motor to the rest of the unit may be shucked in which case it would depend on where it is broken to determine the best repair. Please, if you could as some problems like this are not always simple, take a look at your particular unit and provide me with some further description of what is going on.

Where is the cold control set at? They have an off position.

Turn the Master ON/ OFF Switch to OFF and unplug the unit. Wait 12-15 minutes and plug the unit back in. Turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set your controls. The 12-15 minute timeout should have allowed the unit to reset itself.

The blue means the germicidal lamp is operating. Re: green light - Normal operation at all power levels involves a pre-programmed cycle of altering high and low air movement. Press the the green to override the regular power control setting and run the unit at maximum power for five minutes. Your previously selected power level will resume after the five minutes has elapsed.

Hi Sean,

If the unit is under-warranty, I'd contact the dealer who sold it to you, or EcoQuest customer service (info follows). Get an RMA# (Returned Merchandise Authorization) and take it from there.

If it's not under warranty, they will still repair it, but will charge you. If the controls aren't working, you'll probably need to decide if it's worth it or if you should consider purchasing a new one. Getting into fixing circuit boards or other electonics gets expensive in a hurry.

Hope this helps.

EcoQuest International,
310 T. Elmer Cox Drive
Greeneville, TN 37743
1-800-989-2299

Instruction manuals can be download from this page:
http://www.ionicpro.com/request-custserv.html

make sure the filter is seated in the unit correctly there is a right and wrong way and unless the connection is made it won't start

Check the capacitors. There are two to look for, one on the motor, the other on the PC controller board. 
STEP ONE: Unplug the unit and support it on a table. 

STEP TWO: remove the controller board from the exhaust side of the unit by unscrewing the screws holding the cover to the unit. Unplug the motor wire harness by pressing down on the white retaining clip. They go only one way, but it doesn’t hurt to note which is which. 

STEP THREE: Unbolt the ground wire from the face plate and the whole board should come out. Unscrew the four screws holding the PC board. Look for a little foam pad that will drop out. Remember where to replace it. Screws and capacitor may have blue locktite on them. 

STEP FOUR: Find the capacitor. It’s the part that looks like a tootsie roll, black with two wires coming out one side. It’s between the CPU chip and the big red square block. If it looks bloated, burnt or melted, you found the problem. Replace it with a 1000 microfarad (1000 uf/ 10 volt) ten volt capacitor with a radial lead. About $5 for the part at most electronic parts stores. Careful desoldering the old capacitor to avoid damaging the PC board. WATCH THE POLARITY. There is a negative and positive side. The negative side has a chevron (<) mark and is marked on the PC board. On mine the negative side was nearest the black micro chip and the positive side was towards the red JEFU MPE part. Use a little bolt-tite on the screws of the PC board and some on the capacitor on the PC board to limit vibration. Reinstall the board, plug it in and give it a whirl. 

If no joy, STEP FIVE: Find the motor start capacitor. It is bolted near the motor, black about 1x 2 x 4 and has two red wires coming out of it. Take a battery operated resistance meter on a setting of R x 100 or higher. Charge the capacitor by connection one lead of the tester to one red wire and the other lead to the second red wire. You may have to strip the wire to make contact. Next reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump. Do it a third time incase the first try was discharging. If no needle jumping, replace capacitor. Couldn’t find this locally. May have to by directly from JET Tools. L

Recommend you hard crimp wire splices if cutting off the motor capacitor. .  You can check the windings on the motor too. Check for continuity between the white-yellow-blue-black wires of the motor harness. Any combination should work. If not, motor shot, time for some bigger bucks nrepair.
 
Hope this helps.