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Posted on May 24, 2008
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Surface Heat and other lights will not light up. Will not get hot but is trying - gets slightly warm. This includes burners and oven. The cooking light will come on in the oven but nothing more. The digital clock is working just fine. Magic Chef Super Capacity Electric Range model # 14237184UZ

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  • Master 1,314 Answers
  • Posted on May 24, 2008
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Joined: Dec 28, 2007
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You have a power promblem start where the cord connects to the range and go back from there to the fuses before you pull it out turn off the breakers loose connections will cause the cord to short out sometimes

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0helpful
1answer

LEFT REAR BURNER GETS HOT WHEN OVEN IS ON
Look at this as an asset. The oven vents to that location. (gotta vent somewhere). You can use the heat to melt butter, keep something already cooked warm like the potatoes, dry pans after you've washed them... I like this feature!
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Sep 11, 2014 • Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges
tip

Oven Hot Surface Indicator Light stays on
There have been many questions concerning the failure of the hot surface indicator lights on electric cooktops and stoves and ranges. It seems as though they like to stay on and not shut off. So I did some research and will combine that with my experience to give you an explanation of what has happened and what you will need to do to correct the problem.

The first thing to remember is that on some cook tops the indicator light will come on when power is first applied. The light may stay on for 30-40 minutes in some cases.

Do not be alarmed by this, it is just a way of showing that the light does indeed work.

Now for lights that seems to be a problem and do not shut off. Give any indicator light at least two hours of cooling time before getting alarmed. If it is very warm in the house or kitchen the time may be longer. If you have an electric stove over an oven and you are using the oven then the times can be even longer. The heat underneath will prolong the cooling of the burner. Likewise in the summertime the time it takes to shut off will be much longer then in the wintertime, especially if your house does not have air conditioning.

The indicator light is controlled by a heat sensor either attached to, or near the burner. In some cases the sensor can be replaced separately and on other units the sensor is attached and part of the burner assembly and therefore the whole burner will have to be replaced to correct the problem.

Finally there are a couple of different ways that the indicator lights operate. On some ranges there is one light for all the burners. If this is the case then the sensor wires will need to be unhooked one by one to find exactly which burner is causing the false reading.

One other stoves each burner has an individual indicator light and so it is easy to see where the problem is.

Appliance parts can be purchased online easily but the replacement of these parts is not always easy and it can take quite a bit of experience to know how to replace these parts safely and efficiently. These types of repairs are often not something that the average homeowner wants to try to do.

If you do want to try and tackle this repair yourself, here is a tip about how to buy

Appliance Parts Online.
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on Sep 02, 2010 • Kitchen Ranges
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1answer

Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.
Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



Let me know,if needed further assistance.



Hope i helped you.



Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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Aug 13, 2011 • Maytag Microwave Ovens
0helpful
1answer

Hot Surface light will not go off, and heat coming from oven.
HOT SURFACE LIGHT STAYS ON WHEN ONE OF THE LIMINTERS ON ONE OF THE BURNERS GOES BAD THE HEAT IN THE OVEN IS TOTALLY DIFFERENT PROBLEM NEED TO GET SOMEONE TO CHECK IT
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Jul 22, 2011 • Whirlpool RF341BXKW Electric Kitchen Range
0helpful
1answer

The "hot surface" light will
for the burner problem if the hot light wont go out you have a bad burner, that burner has a limiter on it that tells you when the burner is hot. as for the oven light i would try to change the bulb
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May 12, 2011 • Kenmore Microwave Ovens
1helpful
1answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?
If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.
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Jan 26, 2010 • Kitchen Ranges
1helpful
1answer

I just cleaned by hand by magic chef wall oven and now I can't
Pilotless ignition means that a hot surface ignitor lights the oven burner. It does take a little bit of time to light the burner. Maybe 30 seconds. If you want to make sure it lights take the bottom panel out from the oven and observe the hot surface glow and the burners light. No real danger as the gas valve will only open after the hot surface ignitor has satisfied the gas valve. Let me know how it goes. ken
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Jan 02, 2009 • Magic Chef 9122 Gas Single Oven
0helpful
1answer

The right front burner won't heat
The switch probably failed. Remove power. Take off the top rear cover and inspect the switch for signs of discoloration (burned or brown areas). If looks OK then maybe the element failed.
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May 28, 2008 • Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
0helpful
1answer

Problem w/burners & lights after self clean
You may want to re-seat the right two cooking elements, in case there is poor electrical contact. When you have them removed, clean the contacts with denatured 91% alcohol and a Q-tip. The removal procedure follows.
First, unplug the range.
LIFT–UP PORCELAIN COOKTOP 
To lift:  When cool, grasp the cooktop front 
edge.  Gently lift up until the two support rods 
snap into place. 
To lower:  Hold the cooktop front edge and 
carefully push back on each support rod to 
release.  Then lower the top into place. 
COIL ELEMENTS 
➢When an element is on, it will cycle on 
and off to maintain the heat setting. 
➢Coil elements are self-cleaning. Do not 
immerse in water. 
To remove:  When cool, raise element.  Carefully pull out and away from receptacle. 
Check them for damage. They do wear out.
To replace:  Insert element terminals into receptacle.  Guide the element into place. Press down on the outer edge of element until it sits level on drip bowl. 
COIL ELEMENT SURFACE 
➢ On Canadian models, the two front elements will not operate during self-clean.To prevent the risk of electric shock or fire, never line drip bowls with aluminum foil.


If that does work, you may have a faulty control panel. In that case, call Maytag at the number below. 

Maytag Customer Service
533 Benson Road
Benton Harbor,MI 49022 

(800)688-9900 U.S.
(800)688-2002 Canada 
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Dec 03, 2007 • Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...
4helpful
3answers

Amana ARG7300w oven inop
It has a bad oven igniter.
Read full answer
Aug 04, 2007 • Amana RanARG7302 Gas Kitchen Range
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