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Amplifier has blown supplied speakers and I need to find someone to repair the amp and repair/supply replacement speakers

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It would help to know where you are located and what the receiveer and speakers are.
Thanks,
Dan

Posted on May 21, 2008

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AM 35 Amplifier problem Dear Fixya I ma using two technics turntables into Vestax PMC 25 powered by Akai AM 35 amp. The amp Balance switch between left and right is not working. Also the amp...


From your description, I would guess that the output stage of the amp is not working properly. Rather than the outputs being shorted (the most common failure), the output transistors appear to be open. This basically means that you are attempting to drive the speakers with a "pre-amp" section. This could be a power supply problem or defective transistors. An examination of the last stage of the amp is needed here. If the outputs are open, the parts cost will be in the $40-$60 range. Power supply repairs will likely be in the $20-$40 range for parts.

Hope this helps a bit.

Dan

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Hello i have a samsung AH64-04012C home cinema. Now it gives HELLO PROTECT can you help me with this problem?


Protect mode on any amplifier is a safeguard to stop too much current from being draw by either the power supply or by the power amplifier. Please disconnect all speaker outputs and turn the unit back on. If the protection does not turn on you may have either a shorted speaker or damaged speaker wire that is causing the load on the power amp to be too low which causes much more current to be drawn from the power supply. If the power supply itself is bad you could be in some trouble if you cannot troubleshoot down to board level. Most power supplies in home theaters today are switching supplies. They employ what is called a PWM or pulse width modulation scheme. This supply compared to that of a standard transformer and rectifier setup is much more efficient but at the same time is much more complicated. The AC input voltage switched on and off by a given duty cycle generated from a frequency reference inside the PWM. The power mosfets are what supply the high DC current to the power amplifier. If one of these MOSFETs is damaged it will also give you a protection error.

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1 Answer

The internal 1.6 amp fuse in the power supply sometimes blows on or after switch-on.If the fuse does'nt blow the amplifier appears to work as normal on low volume.


check your wiring and the speakers for shorts...also, you need to look at the back of the amp..there should be an impedance rating for the speakers..it will be in ohms...if your speakers are lower than the rating on the amp then the fuse will blow as this causes the amplifier to overload..if the amp is rated for 8 ohms and you connect 4 ohm speakers this can cause this issue

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MY MHC-GNZ7D MUSIC SYSTEM ONLY SHIWING PLEASE WAIT , ITS NOT WORKING PLEASEGIVE ME SUJETION


One possibility is that the power-on speaker protection delay is stuck on. The most common cause of this is a shorted transistor in one of the power amplifier channels. In that case, you will need to replace the speaker driver transistors in that channel. I don't have service information on your particular model; it may use power amplifier modules rather than individual transistors.

The tricky part is identifying the amplifier power and speaker output terminals to test for this problem. To find a shorted output transistor, you need to measure the resistance between the output of each channel and the plus, then the minus power supply connections. There is a relay between the amplifier output and each speaker terminal on the back; this relay is turned off by the speaker protection circuit, so you can't measure from the speaker terminals. If you have a fried transistor, one of the tests will show a resistance of a fraction of an ohm. A good transistor will have a very high resistance or read open. This will be the case whether you have modular amplifiers or discrete transistors.

If you see a blown fuse, that is a strong indication that you do have a fried transistor. Sometimes the speaker protector circuit shuts down fast enough to save the fuse, but not always.

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Onkyo tx-sr601 bi wire with zone 2


SMCCARTY,
The idea behind bi-wiring speakers is to get the highest quality of sound by getting the sound from two separate sources doing separate jobs. Lower frequencies are harder for an amplifier to produce than higher frequencies. So it is common to give these frequencies to two different amplifiers so each can produce the highest quality of sound. By removing the low end from the top end amplifier, it provides the top end amp more headroom thus reducing the chances of clipping. Clipping can easily be heard from the tweeters destoying not only the sound but your speakers as well. It is common practice in pro and car audio to use separate amps for subbass, low, mid and high; four amps working together to their corresponding drivers (more or less depending on the system and type of audio being produced).

In your case, getting the two different sources from basically the same amp (power supply), would not accomplish the full intent of bi-wiring; it would just make more wiring for the same end result. However still a good thought on your end. Onkyo receivers are great because of their beefy power supplies. Not very many other brands have such strong power supplies. Denon's are close but not equal.
Chris-

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There is most likely a fault in the power supply that is causing the amplifier to go into protection. This receiver more than likely has a switching power supply you can tell by the weight of the amp. Heavy = linear power supply and light = switching power supply. Common problems with switch mode power supplies are the FETs used for switching and the PWM (pulse width modulation generator) If you know someone into electronic repair it should be too difficult. The FETs won't be cheap. Though. All in all the unit should be no more than 100 dollars to repair between labor and parts.

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No sound from Left and Right front speakers


You didn't state it but I assume the other channels are functional?
The auxilliary channels are generally lower power and may even be serviced by a different voltage than the main amps. If it is so designed, you may have something as simple as a blown fuse for the main amp supply.
If the aux. channels are equal in power, the power supply may still be dividing the load so a fuse still could be at fault. The unit could also use integrated power amplifiers in which case, if two channels are operating from a single module it could be a module failure.
I don't see much chance of anyone repairing this system without examining it in the first person. 

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My laney aor series amp has completely stoped working, the valves are still glowing but no sound is coming out


Hi.

Have you checked the HT fuse. the amp has 2 power supplies, one for the tube heaters, and another for the actual operation of the amp. Check that fuse, and replace with exactly the same type if blown. If it keeps blowing fuses, then you may well need to change your output tubes. They don't last forever, and you will get about 6 months out of them in normal gigging/rehearsal use, longer if you don't use the rig at high levels. Be sure also to use a proper speaker lead, not just an instrument patch lead, poor connectivity from anything that is not heavy duty can cause your amp to blow fuses, AND pop valves. I am happy to talk more to you about it, I have had a long love affair with valve amplifiers, both building and repairing them.

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1 Answer

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check shorted rectifier diode in main power supply,check shorted power transistors,if it is power IC amplifier unsold it put fuse if doesn't blown up the problem is solve.

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Kenwood Amp blinking Standby indicator light


Hi fuxsiloh.

It sounds like you have eliminated all the things that could generate this symptom that are external to the amp. It is most likely that there is an internal problem that is causing the amp to go to protection mode. A power supply failure(maybe a fuse) is the only really user serviceable part inside the amp. Perhaps check for failed fuses, replacing any that may have blown with exactly the same type. BE SURE TO UNPLUG AT THE WALL FIRST:)

Is the amp still under warranty? If so, then returning it to a Kenwood service center is the shot. If you want to have a go at repairing it, I can talk you through it, but some experience with this sort of thing is very necessary. Good luck

regards
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