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Like a dum dum took out the two big lens to clean them,and did not pay attentent how they came out.looks like both of them are convexed,with one convexed more then the other.I did notice a black plastic washer in between them. Can you help me?
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Its not to bad .You will need to purchase a shift shaft a shift shaft seal and a primary cover gasket and oil.First drain your oil.Remove your kick starter .Remove your primary cover.Remove entire clutch assembly.You will need air gun or a clutch holding tool to remove the clutch.Once you have the clutch assembly removed yuo can remove the shift shaft .Pay attention to the postion of the shift shaft in relation to the shift drum .Also pay attention to any shims on the shift shaft as that will need to be installed on the new one.Now remove the seal that the shaft was coming out of.Replace the seal install the new shift shaft.Make sure to center it in relation to the shift drum.clean every thing with brake cleaner.clean gasket area .Install the clutch assembly .If you have any trouble with the oriantation of the parts you can look at world of power sports for parts diagrams.Make sure you tighten the clutch hub to the proper torque spec.I would use blue loc tight on the nut as well .If you have a shop do it expect to pay about 2 hours labor max.Plus parts
Hello, did you remove the lens from its tubes? Also did you remove the lens set rings? If you did, O boy. These lens are set to give a center line focal point in the NV tube. The adjustment on the eye piece is for the focal point on you eye. While adjustment on the large 50mm lens is to adjust the center line focal point. If you removed and of lens rings and took them out. Then the lens need to send a lens Opitic company for reclibration to the correct focal point..
Now send me a diagram on what lens you have and I will see if I can reassembly in the correct manner. stewbison
Piston rings may be sticking after sitting for so long. It may serve you well to remove the top end, paying special attention to the timing alignment as you do. Visually inspect the piston and rings. ensure the rings can move freely in their grooves. Look at the piston for signs of blow-by. A burned up surface of the piston that extends past the rings onto the skirts. You may simply re-ring this machine and it would solve your problem if you view these problems.
If you were playing with it like me trying to clean the lens that's what you can get. Try dismantling it again paying attention not to tighten too much the two screws with the rubber seals on them. Put it back together and test. Also make sure the lens that's on the other side of the CCD is clean and can easily move on it's rail/rod. yaro
First check +12v to seat switch going in and activate swith to get +12 out. Start there. Maybe more wires were pulled. Might have to get a mc manual and follow wiring in circuit - Sorry, don' kill him, it happens.
Is the replacement a few dollars less than a new one and then S and H is it worth that? Or buy new...? Never head of any company exchanging a camera for any difference in price unless an extended warranty... Yours really UP? then You lose buy new!
That is your choice! If you want???
Beach salt and then moisture it may just be scrap in a few months clean it out experiment take it out of it's shell seperate it from the lens submerge the electronics in some electronis cleaner solution blow it out with dry Nitrogen that is Ideal or just the 30 lbs of air canned of course. the lense will need attention too..
Good luck...
This is an air separated doublet (invented in the 1700s). Each lens element is made of a different type of glass to reduce false color. So if you get it back together wrong you will notice the bad image. Look at the edges of the elements the thinner one usually goes in front. The concave surface of the rear element should also face front. With the plastic separation ring in place the convex surface of the front element should not come into contact with the rear element's concave surface. It shouldn't rock, there should be about 1mm air separation between them. On shorter focal length refractors (under 500mm) the front surface of the front element has less concavity that the rear surface. On longer focal lengths they are about the same. All I can say is try this and if the image isn't that great flip the front element and try it that way. And don't feel too bad we've all learned the hard way to mark the edges of the elements as we take them out. HTH
Good Day Sherry, GE has used several different designs in the past couple of years. It would be helpful it you could list the model for your unit. When you open the door and glance on the left side.. what you're looking for would be a gray label about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. It will say Model and be something like PDW8200... or GSD5900 that way, we would be able to identify, which particular drain system is used for your particular model. Can we start with that..?
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