We have a 1990 60,000 btu HVAC with the unit outside and the 2nd half in the attic. Water keeps accumulating in the attic below the attic unit and overflowing into the ceilings and wall. It cools fine but our ceiling has been patched each time we are told it has been repaired and yet another leak. Is there a drainage hose missing/clogged or what would be causing this. I realize it is an old unit but this is a Bed and Breakfast and at this time we cannot afford to replace as we need to do the entire place. This unit serves only the upstairs. Help!

compressors dont go weak either valves are failing -or unit motor failing --and if have leak will need fixing and depending on where and why leaking not cheap --get 2nd opinion

they are not filled with water thats the condensation that it is making, its all good, keep the temp at a steady rate, when you get it ice cold then shut her down it makes moisture which then is water.

There is no pat answer for that. There are many different sizes and the space requirements are usually included with the installation instructions, The seller should be able to provide the specifications to you so that you can compare different units.before you buy.

Is this at the thermostat? Have you replaced any batteries in it? If it is powered from the HVAC units, then is there a fuse blown for the power supply to the thermostat? You depending on where the HVAC units are located, you may need to vist the attic or crawlspace to check this out.

The water is condensation from the evaporator coils and is normal. There should be a drain pipe or hose from the pan either to the outside of the home or into the wastewater drain. It is also normal for dirt to accumulate on the evaporator coils and some of it ends up in the pan and clogs the drain. Cleaning the coils and flushing out the drain is something that should be done at least yearly.

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First, I would not advise anyone to use water around electricity!!!, And what you are doing by hoseing down the condenser coil is transferring more heat, what it sounds like is that the unit is to small for the space you are trying to cool, rule of thumb is one ton of air (12,000 BTU) to every 450 square ft of space. So a 16000 sq ft home would require a 4 ton A/C system.
Also, the unit will work harder in the daytime , during the hottest part of the day, because there is more heat load on the unit. Check your insulation in your attic.
Some other causes of this problem are low on charge, or a leak in your system, will also get worse as your system will go flat.
A dirty condenser coil, you can turn off Electricity to unit , spray down coil w/ 409 cleaner and hose off, then turn back on, a dirty coil will stop transfer of heat and make your system work harder.
A dirty air filter will also cut down on cooling, if you can't get air into the system, you can't get it out!!
Start w/ your filter, then wash your coil (outside coil) called the condenser, again make sure power is off first!!
If you still have a problem, call a service tech, preferably not the guy who told you to water it!!
HOPE THIS HELPS!!

You need to get the blower motor going, the unit is froze up. Try switching the fan spped wires on the control board on the unit in the attic.

If that does not work, replace the motor

I assume it is dripping water when the AC is running. If you look at the attic unit, there should be a PVC pipe running from the unit - probably an insulated PVC pipe. This pipe probably goes across the attic to the edge of the house and drains outside. The drain pan may also have a drain pipe, but the one on the AC unit is the issue, and is probably plugged. Go outside and see if you can locate the AC drain pipe. See if the ground is wet below the pipe and if water is steadily dripping from the pipe (with AC running). If the pipe and ground are dry, the pipe is plugged. If you have a wet/dry vac, try connecting it to the drain pipe outside to see if you can **** the pluggage out. If you can get it clear, water should start dripping out of the pipe. This same thing happened at our house. I decided to cut the pipe in the attic, and add in a PVC isolation valve, tee, and water hose connection with plug, so I can valve out the AC unit from the pipe, remove hose connection plug, and hook up a water hose and flush the line to outside. Lowe's sells all of the PVC pipe fittings. The water pressure from the hose will always flush out the algae and crud to the outside of the house. I can also remove the plug and pour a cup of bleach down the drain pipe every couple of months to keep algae growth in check. I also cut out the trap (u-leg) from pipe in the attic and purchased a ready made trap a Lowes (the contractor who built our house had made a lousy homemade trap). I purchased a few PVC elbows and installed the trap on the drain pipe outside. By the way, our AC drain pipe comes out of our wall outside and drains near our outside unit. Our secondary drain pan drain pipe comes out outside from an eave on the side of the house. I don't know what you drain line looks like (it may have a port to add bleach, or some cleanout provisions, maybe not). If you choose to modify/improve it, then make a sketch of it, go to Lowe's and get the PVC parts you need + PVC pipe primer and cement. PVC cement dries fast. Remember, the pipe must flow downhill from you AC attic unit. You can use a regular wood saw to cut the pipe. I hope this helps you. You need to keep the drain line clear as algae will continue to grow in it. Pouring bleach in the line every month or two helps. You also need to check maybe once a month that the line is draining properly (check to see if dripping outside). You can get some serious water damage to your ceilings if the water backs up and overflows. I discovered that our drain line was plugged just in time as our drain pan drain line was also partially plugged and drain pan was about to overflow.

Sorry to hear about your miss-fortune, you are right it is an wiring problem. Can you turn off the blower with the thermostat (cool-off-heat) or what happens when you switch the fan to (auto or on) When you say the outside unit is "rigged" is it mechanically being jammed or electrically? If its mechanically that should be removed (what a crappy thing to do) other wise it will run continuously as you may already know. That is what it sounds like, you should just be able to shut the entire system down by turning off the switch to the furnace. If it is electrically being held closed, he changed some of the wiring around in the attic unit, you better hope he was lazy and jammed a stick in the contactor in the outside unit or else you may need to learn more about HVAC wiring, none the less I would double check the thermostat wires going to the attic furnace there should be nomenclature on the unit or at least somewhat marked. This was probably disturbed when the new blower was installed, by the way that was your initial problem. Good luck and becarful