A/c not used frequently. Turned on fan and have serious vibration of the motor. Shaft does not have side to side movement and the bracket and runner mounts are intact. // acts like it is out of balance.

The fan blade touching the interior back cover????

May be the fan motor shaft is too long or may be he did not push the fan blade well inside into shaft so it is to much out. Thus touching the wall cover plate..????

Hi,Whynter Portable Air Conditioner has many moving parts, and they all make noise and cause vibrations. Some of these parts are more likely to causing shaking and loud noises, and sometimes this signals a larger problem, something to watch and scrutinize. If serious enough, it calls for a repair.

Loose Parts

Loose parts cause the majority of shaking and vibration noises in your air conditioner. A few of the most common loose parts include the air compressor, the piston rods and even the fan or blower unit itself. These noises are clunking, clanking sounds that occur along with a vibrating action. The only method of repair is a complete compressor replacement, which is a repair only a certified air conditioner technician is qualified to make. The compressor is a fully sealed component, so individual parts in the compressor cannot be repaired.

Fan Blades

Fan blades cause noise, shaking and vibrations even when properly secured. If fan blades contact the exterior structure of the air conditioner due to a bent fan blade or broken and misaligned grate, a constant, repetitive noise and vibration results, which sounds like a ticking or banging from the interior of the air conditioner. Vibration in this case is limited but still present.

Mounting Brackets

When an air conditioner shakes, there is a problem with the mounting brackets. These brackets hold the air conditioner compressor steady as it operates. Normal vibrations and shaking would otherwise occur without these brackets. A loose mounting bracket causes the air conditioner to rock back and forth and creates a clanking sound. As the compressor starts up, this rocking and clanking sound begins, resulting in a very loud and fast vibration and noise. It also occurs when the unit shuts down.

Other Sounds and Vibrations

Sometimes air conditioners squeal, hiss, hum or screech. Each noise is often accompanied by a vibration. Humming sounds along with a vibration may indicate a bad capacitor, the electrical part responsible for starting the machine. Hissing sounds tend to indicate a pressure problem while screeching and squealing sounds are fairly common in window air conditioners and in central air conditioners. This sound is also a result of the compressor motor. It usually starts when the unit turns on and continues through its normal operating cycle. Vibrations always occur in the air conditioner due to moving parts and the compressor motor's operation.


Hope it helped..

Mike a few problems could cause this problem. even though the assem is new is the wheel out of balance if it spins freely and you can see that there is no wobble then disreguard this but I have found time and time again that the part recieved is warped next possible is travel on the shaft is there any give or movement of the fan blade on the shaft this once again happens frequently. next is the shaft may be bent this is infrequent but does happen if installed correctly it should not wobble but check these items anyways 95% of the time it will be return and get a new one.

Could be motor mount bushings, or bearings going in motor, but another common cause is mud-wasp nests, or other debris on the blades of your condenser fan. You'll need to shut off power at breaker, remove cover on roof unit, and have a look, and clean off as necessary. While power is off try moving motor shaft up and down, side to side, to feel if there is excessive play that may be the cause. This will also allow you to have someone turn unit back on, while you stand back with cover off and observe for possible causes of movement. Turn power back off at breaker for re-install of cover.

The key to a quiet fan is to isolate the motor vibration from all other parts. This occurs, in the majority of fans, in three places: between the motor and the blade brackets, between the blade brackets and the blades, and between the downrod/motor flange and the mounting bracket. Some fans also have vibration-isolating material between the mounting bracket and the ceiling. If your fan makes a noticable humming noise, inspect it for the above mentioned types of vibration-isolating material. With the exception of the rubber flywheel, if your fan is lacking any of the above, they are easy to add and should solve the majority of humming problems. You can always add additional material as rubber washers and spacers are readily available.

The motor is a common item to need replacement in bathroom vents. Replacements can be found just about anywhere that deals with electric motors. You might even be able to get a replacement where you originally purchased the unit. There are dozens of web sites that you can locate a replacement. http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com is just one. Simply do a web search on replacement bathroom vent motors. Also if the are able to purchase items from wholesale vendors you can get one from Grainger's. It should cost around $20 to $25
Part # 62345-000 (replacement motor part #).


However there is an alternative to replacement. This depends entirely on how handy you are with these kinds of things and how bad off the motor is. If your not comfortable with repairing this kind of thing don't bother with the rest of this.

I hate to replace anything that may be repairable. Unfortunately my friends know this and recently one asked me to look at his NuTone bathroom vent motor before he replaced it.
For the cost in time of an hour I was able to refurbished it.
A good way to check if it's a candidate for repair is to check how much play is in between the shaft and bushings. If you can feel movement then it's best to go ahead and replace it. If the problem is that the shaft is tight and just hard to turn then it may just need some cleaning and fresh lubrication.
The steps are simple. Once you have the motor removed from the vent cage you will see a pair of nuts and bolts holding two brackets in place. These brackets(one on either side of the coil) are what hold the shaft centered and house the bushings. Remove the bolts and the brackets. Be careful not to lose any of the washers on the shaft. These are spacers and need to be replace the same way they went on if they come off. All you need to do is clean both ends of the shaft put a little oil on the shaft and in the bushing and put it back together. If the motor has a plug and not just bare wires for reconnecting to the power supply then it's safe to just plug it in to any outlet for testing after you remount it in the vent cage. You will know right away if you were successful.


Hope this helps.

fan noises are caused by contact of blades to housing, vibration of loose parts or bearings in motor. Check for these and oil fan shaft at bearing or oil holes. Is the noise from the vent or the oven itself.

With a little more detail on how to clean the 84001. There are 2 screws at the top of the unit on the back side and 1 on the bottom with a small removable cover. Remove those screws and the cover can be removed.
There will be some resistance towards the middle because of 2 clips on both sides. Be carefull not to pull too hard on the ends ; possibility of breaking the cover. Try pressing on center of the cover on one side of the edge.
There are 2 screws holding a bracket that holds the top of the fan. Remove those screws. Then on the bottom there is a shaft that attaches to the motor. You will find a set screw that you need to loosen. When you loosen and remove squirrel cage you will notice a flat spot on shaft. That is where the set screw is to be put when assembling the fan back together.
After cleaning just follow the steps back to assemble your 84001 and enjoy a clean brisk breeze. I hope this helps explain in more detail on how to clean it.

I experienced the same problem last week with my freezer. Apparently the change in temperature during defrosting allows the blade locking mechanism to slide on the motor shaft during the spinning operation. The blade pulls itself along the shaft until it comes in contact with the motor mounting bolt. If your freezer just stops getting super cold, but remains cool and you don't hear the fan spinning, remove the inside back panel and check the fan blades for freedom of movement. I almost disposed of the freezer this past week but decided to make one last check of the mechanisms.

Sounds like you need a new fan motor. First make sure the fan blade turns freely and see if you can move the shaft side to side, or up and down. If you can feel any movement in the fan shaft the bearings of the motor are bad. It is possible for some ice to have the fan blade frozen causing the motor to stall. Some models also have a fan light switch install at a point near the hinge side of the door.