When i set my system to run the chlorine light comes on for only a second then the system resets as if I didnt set it to run at all, I cannot get it to run, what to do?

After setting your time it will take up to 10 minutes for the second green light to come on

88 means you are filtering alone no chlorine
Once the generator is set it will run its time like 1-12 hours depending on what you set it at
After this time it will flash 93 meaning it is getting ready for sleep mode eventually it will shut that down and then turn back on at the same time you programed it the time before

There are 2 green lights
top one is that you are filtering
second one comes on about 2-10 minutes after you set the generator time this shows you are producing salt

it can take up to 10 minutes for that second light to come on.Until then you are probably not producing chlorine

what light? There is the top green light to indicate pump on
the second light comes on when you set the timer for chlorine generation
This light can take up to 10 minutes to come on

make sure you have at least 3000ppm of salt content'

set your timer for generation - the green chlorine light will not come on for at least 5 minutes sometimes up to ten

make sure you run the generator for at least 4-6 hours the first time

I found I had the same problem. I would set the hours, it would count them down but the green light would NOT come on indicating it was producing chlorine, yet the sleep light would light up after the count down so I knew the light was working. I checked my salt, made adjustments, had to do shock treatments to keep it clean. Today I  found out that the manual is incorrect in how it says to set it. After you set the hours, instead of pushing both the arrows at the same time until it beeps, push the down button until it beeps, and then the up button until it beeps. For 2 months I have fussed with this system, and finally the green light came on and my test strips indicate it is producing chlorine. Yeah! To bad intex does not seem to mention this on their web site.
Good Luck

Two Things come to mind, the board, or it could be that the life of the cell has expired.

The Pool Tech

no chemicals needed -Test strip are not as accurate as liquid kits buy one for about 10 dollars
Also since it is a new set up you shouls run the chlorine generator for at least 8 hours.
Make sure your chlorine light comes on ( about 5 minutes sometimes a little longer after you set the timer)

Also get a test kit to detect salt 10 dollars for 10 tests Keep it as close to 3000ppm as you can the higher you go past this amount the saltier the water can taste

do not go below 2500 you do not want to have to be bothered adding salt for splash out or rain.

starting at 3000ppm gives you a long time before needing to add for the splash out or rain with these factors you only loose about 25-35ppm's when refilling and so on so it is a long way to 2500

One other pointer is to make sure you filter your pool enough. It is recommended to turn your pool water over at least 3 times a day
as an example I will use my 7000gallon pool with my 2000gl pump thats about 10 hours a day just for filtering. This does not include how long you need to leave the generator on to produce the amount of chlorine to produce a 1.0 or a 1.5 setting Also keep in mind that chlorine affects the ph so chlorine needs sel first before you worry about ph so once both are set then watch as the chlorine drops so will ph but once you run the generator to rebuild the chlorine level the ph will come up by itself. Ph will cause more problems with eye irritation and cloudy water than chlorine

I have the zodiac duoclear system and have used it for nearly two years. All in all, it's a very good system. I have had similiar issues on occassion. Have you tried the master reset button on the lower right hand face of the control board? I've been able to clear up the lights by resetting the system.

If the salt content in the pool is not correct, the system will not allow you to superchlorinate. Your salt level should be at 4000 ppm. The add salt light is programmed to come on if the system gets below 3600 ppm. When the system is below 4000 ppm, it is unable to generate the chlorine needed. The lower the salt, the less you can chlorinate. Might not be your problem, but I've run into this before too.

The lights for replacing your cartridge puzzle me. I'm making an assumption that your pool is probably dirty if you're trying to superchlorinate. The dirtier the water, the faster the electrode in the cartridge will get covered in scale from the current and conversion process. Try cleaning the new cartridge by placing it in a bucket with a 75% water and 25% muratic acid mix. Let it soak for a few minutes and gently swirl it around in the mixture. This will clean the contacts in the cartridge.

Keys with the Duoclear system: Salt content and clean the filters regularly. Don't know if this will solve your problem or not, but good luck.