Question about Armco Industrial Supply C Pool & Spa
Read all my comment before you choose a course of action:
Is this above ground? If yes, dump the water and start again. Whether in ground or above ground, back wash the sand filter, if you have sand, replace the DE if a DE filter, if a cartridge filter - replace the cartridge. Better yet, get rid of the cartridge and get a sand filter with capacity for your pool.
If in ground, get rid of as much water as you can without danger of (1) popping the pool out of the ground due to ground water (2) bankrupting the budget.
With new water, treat for metal with a sequestering agent. If you don't, when you add sanitizer, the water will turn green or brown from the metal. Follow bottle instructions for the sequestering agent. You will also stain a gunnite pool with the metals.
While this is going on - check your pump for impeller damage - over haul your filter. Get your filter running and leave it running 24/7. When this is done, get your water in balance. First, get the calcium to 300 PPM, Second, get the Alk to 100 ppm. Next get the pH to 7.4 ... these steps may take days ... don't try to do this in one quick afternoon. Dose your pool with several small doses of chemicals not one big dose. Add chemical to water - not water to chemical.
The final step (with your filter running for sure) introduce CL to the 4 or 5 ppm level.
If you don't want to do these steps, and just want to get the pool clear do this: Get the filter clean (you dont say what kind of filter you have ... so I will just say GET IT CLEAN) Raise the CL to 20 ppm. Get a filter aid product and use according to contailer instructions. Let the filter do its thing for at least 24 hours before you clean it again and try it again. If you are using liquid CL, you must protect it with cyanuric acid at the 80 ppm level. Dry CL normally has cyanuric acid built in - check the label.
Metal, algae; big problems in pools. Get rid of them - Brush your pool at least one time per week. Maintain sanitizer at 4 ppm or better - shock the pool to the "break point" if you find Combined CL (Combined CL is Free available CL + Total CL = combined CL) Your pool supply place can teach you about "break point" which will release the CL from the contaminents and allow the CL to go back to work. If yor pool smells like CL you must follow the "break point" CL procedure.
I hope this helps you get your pool going ...
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Posted on Aug 09, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.
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