Weed Eater WT 3100 how do I remove/replace cutting head

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problem most likely is that the cable drive for the head is twisted up inside the tube and jamming the operation
you have 2 options
remove the head from the tube and pull the cable out or
remove the tube from the power head and pull the cable out that way
new cables are available from your local mower shop
if the cable guides inside the tube are damaged , consider replacing the bent tube with a straight tube , then you can use more attachments for the head

Usually the cutting head will have a couple of plastic tabs you push in to release the spool cover and get access to the spool

you should see the mount screws to remove the head, you may have to open the string case and remove parts in there depending.

FIXED- No start Weed Eater with the symptom of the primer bulb collapsed, not filling nor returning to pop out after pressed.

Worked in model WT-3100 with Walbro carburetor WT-583 and has to work in many others. It happened after winter hibernation, even when left with no fuel to prevent formation of fuel deposits.

FIRST, mark/scribe the carburetor fuel outlet that has the hose towards the primer purge bulb as 'OUT' and the fuel inlet coming from the fuel tank 'IN'
The problem was a fine mesh metal screen strainer blocked by contaminants, inserted at place shown as number '3' in figure 7 at
----> www.drystacked.com/Walbro%20Carburetor%20Theory%2027Jun2010.pdf
That fine mesh was removed by prying its edges around with a sewing needle held by pliers.
It you cannot see light trough it holding it against a lamp, is blocked even if looks clean.
Removed, discarded, reassembled and started. Later ordered the part or kit but was able to use the machine immediately.

Writing this as am tired of seeing responses like 'may be this' or 'try that' or 'perhaps the other' by guessers.

Here is the info from the manual, the replacement line is put in near the center of the spool on the top of it, you simply feed it in. I have included a link to the manual so you can see the pictures. Look at page 10 for these instructions.
http://www.weedeater.com/ddoc/WEEO/WEEO2009_USen/WEEO2009_USen_TE475-952711797_545186833.pdf
LINE REPLACEMENT Pre--wound spools offer the most convenient method for replacing line and ensuring optimum performance. S Replacement spools are color--coded to ensure use of the correct spool with your unit. Be sure to use the same color spool as the existing spool. NOTE: Always clear dirt and debris from cutting head components when performing any type of maintenance. S Hold spool and unscrew cap by turning in the direction shown on top of the cap. S Remove line guide ring and spool. NOTE:When removing and/or installing spool, ensure dust cup remains installed over shaft. Use a pre--wound spool or refill spool with line. If using a pre--wound spool, remove tape strip from line and spool. REFILLING THE SPOOL WITH LINE WARNING: Use only 0.080" (2 mm) diameter round line. Other sizes and shapes of line will not advance properly and will result in improper cutting head function or can cause serious injury. Do not use other materials such as wire, string, rope, etc. Wire can break off during cutting and become a dangerous missile that can cause serious injury. 1. Cut a length of 25 feet of 0.080" (2 mm) diameter round WEED EATER brand line. Feed line in direction shown on spool. Spool 2. Insert one end of line into center cavity of empty spool. Ensure line will feed into spool in the direction shown on the spool (counterclockwise). 3. Continue feeding line into spool, leaving 4 -- 6 inches (10 -- 15 cm) unwound from center of spool

I installed the Pivo trim head yesterday. The info that came with the unit will show you how to install it on ANY Weed Eater Unit. Also they have videos on their web site at: https://pivotrim.com/

Look on the end of the shaft of your weed eater at the head. Mine was a 25cc Poulan/weed eater SST45 and it has a hole that you need to stick a HEX KEY in so the shaft does not move when you try to remove it. ALSO it has a BACKWARDS THREAD!!! So "Right is NOT Tight." Left is to tighten and turn towards the right to get the head to unscrew so you can put on the Pivotrim Head. Also you can use ANY Weed Eater line on the unit. As I tried several different lines and found different uses for different lines. Such as edging and trimming against fences. Best after Market Weed Eater head I have EVER used. :-)

Enjoy! :-D

new doesnt mean free from defects sounds like the shaft is binding can be from a kink or not lubed correctly-- its new so bring back to walmart and replace or return

For manual go to;
http://www.poulanpro.com/poulanpro/manualSearchPrepare.do;jsessionid=332BA6FC1EA2792C79A0A463204716AA

Preparation Instructions


1. Press the lock and rotate the spool counter-clockwise.
2. Remove the locking ring if your weed eater has one.
3. Take off the automatic feed button.
4. Wipe away any debris.
5. Push down on the spool to release the locking tabs.
6. Remove the spool from the chamber. Restringing the Weed Eater
7. Feed the line into the lower deck, traveling the line in an upside down J fashion (almost like sewing on a button but do not tie off the line). This secures the internal end of the line.
8. Wrap the line following the directed arrows. Do this until it wraps to the depth of the chamber.
9. Secure each of the lines into its own upper and lower deck grove settings.
10. Install the spool back into its chamber.
11. Pass the lines into the left and right holes and snap the spool into place.
12. Once the spool is in its sleeve and fed into its left and right eye holes, pull both ends simultaneously.
13. Reinstall the locking ring if necessary.

Do it yourself repair: common repairs for a weed eater Amazingly, weed eaters are one of the simplest yard tools to take care of. One of the first things you should do to keep your weed eater in good condition is to clean it. It is important not to clean your weed eater with water or gas, which may destroy the engine. The best, and easiest way to clean it is by blowing off dirt and grass with an air compressor or a leaf-blower after every use. The next most important thing to maintain on your weed eater is string. When the string gets low you can remove the lower part of the head (the part that the string comes out of) by pushing in slightly and turning the head counterclockwise. Cut the new string no shorter than 6 inches or the weed eater will not advance the string properly when in use. Thread the string back though the guides, making sure to follow the arrows on the guide. If the string is not put through the guides the right way, the head may pop off during use. Next, replace the bottom of the head by pushing and turning clockwise. You can totally skip this step by buying a string replacement cartridge. Though it is much more expensive, it saves you the trouble of having to restring your weed eater yourself. window.google_render_ad(); If you find that the head of your weed eater is worn on bottom or hard to get off to replace the string then it is time to replace it. This can be done very simply by unscrewing the two screws at the top of the head and slipping it off. Then, just slide the new one on and tighten the screws. After a few months of use, you may find that your weed eater is losing power or that it is making a strange lower pitched noise. This may be caused by a dirty filter. To check, unscrew the knob or wing nut on the carburetor. Inside you will find a small square screen, this is the filter. If the filter is gray or black then it is time for it to be cleaned. The easiest way to clean it is to blow it out with an air compressor. It can also be washed with plain water, but you must let it dry before placing it back into the carburetor. Once the filter is white or only light grey it is ready to use again. Always make sure to mix the gas and two-cycle oil in the proportions that are listed in the weed eater’s manual. Never use anything but two-cycle oil, normal car oil will not work and will damage your engine.

They usually have a hex-head bolt cast inside the plastic knob, the head starts spinning inside. You might be able to loosen the knob by gripping it with Vice-Grips really tight, then get a new knob. Should be right-hand thread.