My Ryobi weedeater engine keeps stalling out.

Here was my solution:
I was having problems with my ryobi cs30 weedeater also. It would start up fine on full choke, but i could not give it more than half throttle or ever take the choke off or it would stall out. I replaced fuel mixture, spark plug, spark arrestor/exhaust, fuel lines, cleaned carb, and still nothing! I was considering getting a better machine. Then i decided to play with the carb adjustments.(on my cs-30, they are two screws on the carb that have a "L" and "H" next to them) I dont think you can get the specialty tool for adjusting the carb unless you are a repair tech, so i just took a Dremmel tool with the circular cut-off wheel to the head of the specialty screws and made them into "flat-head" screws so i could adjust them with a regular screwdriver (if you dont have a dremmel too, get one!) (As i was cutting into the head of the screws, i also cut into the casing protecting the head of the screws that was in the way, this does not cause any damage to the unit, that casing is only there to keep "un-certified" people from adjusting it for themselves.)
Now to the easy part: The "L" screw adjusts the idle fuel mixture and the "H" screw adjusts the full throttle fuel mixture. turning the screws clockwise make the machine run leaner (less fuel) and counter clockwise makes it run richer (more fuel).
-I started out by turning each screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise and started it up, then as it was idling, i started adjusting the "L" screw as i was moving the choke position to run, after a few full turns counter clockwise of the "L" screw, it was idling perfectly in the run position, then i did the same thing the the "H" screw while holding down the throttle and i got it to run perfectly in the run position. Now it is running way better than it ever has. I hope this helps everyone.
Good Luck!

My weedeater started to kill while operating. The idle and run were fine. It kills like I hit the stop switch. I pull once and it starts right up then kills 30 seconds later. Any ideas on this.

My CS30 that I just bought worked fine the first time I used it. It sat in the shed for maybe 2 weeks and when I tried to start it I had the same problems as nimmote wrote about. I wanted to use his suggestion to adjust the H and L jets on the carb, but didn't want to dremel out the guard and screws (in case I needed to return it). I tried several things to try and fit around those sloted adjustment screws and found that a 3/8" copper Watts "All-Tube" Nut Sleeve & Insert (that can be found in any hardware stores plumbing section) was the best. You simply pull out the insert and tap it onto one of the screws. I first tapped it on the H screw using a small hammer and keep in mind that the first time you have to use enough force to mold the copper mold around the screw, but once it is on there it is easily removed and placed on the L screw. Just look inside the insert and you can see a notch where it has been recessed around the screw slot. You line that notch up with the slot on the other screw and it slides on by hand. You can then use needle nose pliers to adjust either screw as nimmote described.
Now my CS30 runs like a champ!
In my case I had to turn the L screw about 1/2 turn CW to reduce air flow at idle and the H screw a 1/4 turn CCW to let in more fuel at full throttle. My understanding is the L screw is a needle valve that controls how much air is allowed in the carb and the H screw is a needle valve that controls how much fuel is allowed in the carb. Anyways hope this helps someone, it is absurd that they are not sloted screws that the end user is allowed to adjust...

Thanks for the advice, it worked. I had the identicle problem as describes (would start, but wouldn't idle and as soon as I gave it gas or moved into the B or C position it would die out)...The one thing I did differently was that I was able to slightly turn the L screw (white/clear casing) a half turn counter clockwise without removing it (there is a slot that a flat head will work on without removing the white casing and the screw will actually turn) and then I used a pair of plyers to pull off the red casing (H screw) completely as there is no way to turn the screw with a screwdriver with the casing on. Once I pulled the red casing off, I used a small flat head to also turn the H screw a half turn counter clockwise. Started it up and it idles well and runs well. Thanks for the advice. I would have had no idea otherwise.

You can thank the EPA for all of these mixture-limiting BS contrivances.
The first thing I do on any engine that comes in for repair is to remove all of the limiters, then the mixtures can be adjusted correctly, according to the conditions needed for proper operation, and not conditions mandated by the EPA.

My weedeater is impossible to start.Any suggestions

Before you start touching the plastic covers on the fuel mixture screws make sure they are factory set and then move on to other fixes. These plastic set screws should be set that they touch one another flat faced. there is a cam type lobe on these plastic covers. Use needle nose pliers to turn them slightly towards each other (perpendicular) if you don't have the correct screwdriver.

Thanks for answers. I ordered Ryobi PacMan adjusting tool on Amazon or $10, followed directions and now my SS30 is running like new!

I have a ryobi weed eater engine, it just wont start, i cleaned everything, it dropped before but i doubt thats the problem, i messed with the l and h screws a little but i dont know what to do, and answers? if so email me at [email protected]

You have to adjust the high and low idle screws on the carburetor which is difficult without a special tool. I have the old CS26 weed trimmer and it has had a hard time for a while now on high, stalling out frequently. I had replaced the fuel lines a year or two back but don't use it much as we have a lawn service. I dug it out this year and started working on it and after reading these comments just bought an entire new carburetor on Amazon for $16 simply because it comes with an adjustment tool. I used the tool on the existing carburetor to adjust the high idle screw and it works great now. Horrible design not to have those screw slotted. Just horrible. Spending 16$ is better than paying over a hundred for a new trimmer though. Amazing how cheap these sorts of things are now online.

My idle was set too high. I had all the same problems you all describe, turned the idle down until it nearly died then turned it up a quarter turn. Runs perfect and most of the time will start without choking it.

You can get the tool on ebay. There are several types. Most Ryobi's use the "pac-man" named such because of the shape of the head.

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