Question about Refrigerators
A whirlpool repairman said that the module of my WBM46 refrigerator needs replacement because it has a problem. What happened was that the ref would keep turning on and off when we open its door/s. later on it does the same thing even if the doors are closed.
What i would like to know is this: is it possible for a electronic technician to fix the module or should i just buy a replacement...the thing is it's too expensive to buy a replacement. I have a little background in electronics myself but i don't trust myself touching it for fear of making the problem worse...but if anyone had had the same problem before and if the problem is as simple as testing which capacitor, resistor or diode is whacked and needs replacing...again, if it is as simple as that, then i could do it myself...just tell me what to do...
Thank you very much!
I know this is an old thread, but just in case people, like myself, are still looking
It is a 450V 2uF Capacitor that causes the issue. It is used as part of a divider circuit and as it fails, it creates a situation where the board can not supply the correct power so when the compressor, fan and light run together the fridge literally turns on and off repeatedly. The capacitor is on the Potency Module. This fails over time, the capacitor dries out, and that causes the issue.
This fridge model, including all variants of WBM35 and WBM46 (that I know of) has a Magnetic door switch for the interior lighting and fan control, so there is no lever or anything to hold in or tape in.
The Potency Module is easy to replace as a complete unit, it is on the lower left side of the rear of the fridge. There is 1 screw to remove (hex head) to release the metal cover and two screws that hold the potency module in place.
The cabling is keyed so will only go back on the one way. Cables are firmly connected, but just pull out. Be careful not to damage the ribbon cable when you unplug it (this goes to the interface board which is at the front of the fridge, with the two buttons and lights).
The Potency module as a complete part is available still (as of me writing this) but varies from $180 to $400 depending where you source it from. It's fairly easy to remove and replace if you have a little knowledge. If you get a tradie in to fix it, then it will not be worth it on the smaller models such as WBM35's as a new fridge would be cheaper.
Posted on Jun 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is no suction system. flush your defrost drain tube with boiling water and a turkey baster. should get some pretty nasty sludge out and sound will go away.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
Hi, No the door is not adjustable like you might think Since it is smaller than the other door any alignment problem is really visible. First do check the bracket to make sure you didn't lose a screw and that the brackets are solid and don't move. The problem is the level of either the refrigerator or the floor. If you have a 3 ft bubble level put in on the top of the refrigerator along the front, NOT on the door. There are feet on the bottom front corners of the refrigerator, you may have to remove the plastic grill to access them but depending on the model and age of your refrigerator it should be attached with clips. The feet screw in and out but with weight they won't move easily so you may have to jack the front a little, remove some stuff or try a crescent wrench. Once the front is level check the front to back, the refrigerator needs to tilt slightly to the rear so the door when partially open will close by itself. Again you didn't give a model so on some the rear feet are not adjustable and some are. I suspect you may have adjustable and the box is not squared up. If after adjusting the front and the entire refrigerator tilts like an uneven table leg then you have to adjust the feet likewise. Use your level diagonally across the top both directions, it should be exactly the same. If you have non adjustable and they are uneven it is the floor and you have to use shims under the low foot. Good Luck!
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
Hi Lollipop, partially working fridge? A fridge either works or not, cold air is made in freezer then distributed to fridge via a vent. In your case WBM Series fridge, top mount freezer blows air down a vent (back centre of chiller compartment). A common fault with the WBM Series is both the PCB and Interface Panel (PCB beside compressor back of fridge, Interface is display panel front of fridge).
So if freezer is cold and fridge not, try a fan motor. If compressor doesn't work either comp is faulty or PCB has blown(has a burning smell).. Hope this helps you and maybe many other ppl.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
Throw it out and don't buy Whirlpool again. I had the same fridge and it was doing the same thing and would of cost heaps to fix it.
Posted on Oct 29, 2010
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