I have bought the part, but dont know how to take the door cover off to replace the broken latch
SOURCE: Door handles on rangemaster toledo 110 duel fuel
Yes this is easy to do.We can supply bits if required.
SOURCE: Rangemaster 110
i have had the same problem with rangemaster 110, r/h solinoid,i purchased a replacement from an authorized dealer, same fault within 6 months, i had to purchase a replacement so they could check the first replacement was faulty before they refund my money. now the second one has failed. so we have decided to use it until the l/h oven gives up (hopefully sooner than later) then we will be buying another double oven, but it will not be rangemaster.
delboyp
SOURCE: Oven will not respond
The knob won't have any effect on the flame size. The knob controls temperature. If you're referring to the pilot light staying on and then the main flame not going on...that's another problem. If the main flame will not go on, the assembly that controls the main flame is likely defective. If the unit has a thermocouple, you might change it out first. Sometimes, that's all that is needed and they're cheap.
SOURCE: RANGEMASTER 110 Cooker FLAME FAILURE DEVICE fitting
My progress to date (20090127):
1 Turn off the gas supply to the oven
2 Turn off the electricity supply
3 Remove the oven linings
4 Remove the storage drawer
5 Remove the three screws holding on the bottom trim and the trim
6 Crank up the front roller
7 Pull out the oven carefully making sure the gas hose and electrical lead are long enough and not caught
8 Working from the rear of the Rangemaster, for the right-hand oven, remove the four screws on the corners of the large cover plate at the back of the oven about half way down on the left-hand side as viewed from the back.
9 Remove the cover plate.
10 Go to the front of the oven. Above the burner assembly, towards the left is a thin metal rod running front to back. This is held in place by a clip at the back and by the hole in the metal frame at the front. Remove the metal clip at the back using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Retain the clip.
11 This should release the metal rod (flame sensing device) and you should be able to push it through the hole and out at the back. It is attached to a long copper wire.
12 Go to the back of the range. You should be able to work the wire back through the hole in the rear metal plate and up to the gas valve. The wire is held in place at the gas valve by a bent clip on the rear right. Carefully bend this clip back towards the oven to release the wire.
13 The wire goes down under the gas valve and to a threded bolt end into the bottom of the gas valve ad the bolt is held in place using a locking nut.
14 Remove the locking nut using a small spanner. The threded bolt should now turn, with the aid of long-nosed pliers.
15 The next trick is to remove this threaded bolt on the end of the copper wire and I have not figured out how to do that. It will unscrew a good way but becomes tight and will not come out, as though something inside the valve is holding it in place. Could it be that the flame sensing device has to be removed and inserted from inside the gas valve? If so, what a daft piece of engineering this is.
16 HELP.
SOURCE: RANGEMASTER 110 Cooker FLAME FAILURE DEVICE fitting
the ffd comes has a unit with a gas tap connected to it. can be brought for £90.99 from manufactures.
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