Just bought 2nd hand a supposedly good working order zanussi tumble dryer got it home turned it on drum turning but cold air in dryer. we then noticed that the back got rather hot.and then nothing. due to the urgency of getting a dryer due to old one dieing we spent 65 quid and it looks like we've been done and costing us more in the long run, ive had the m/c appart looked at the heating element one of the wires was very badly corroded so i opened the element up checked all the springs and all are in tact. snipped the the bad wire cleaned and crimped connector attaching the original which runs around the back via crimp also, just put everything back together mc runs but still no heat URGENTLY REQUIRED HELP is there anything else i can look at doing Zanussi TD4112W

Condenser dryers are simple in operation. They use a heater element to force hot air to heat the clothes and turn the water to steam. That steam is turned back into water by drawing cold air into the machine and over the heat exchanger unit and into the drum. The problems with them is that they are slow to dry.

Your best bet is to call for service, and the problem is likely the sensor probe or one of the thermal cut out.

https://www.4candy.co.uk/tumble-dryer/ro-h10a2tce-80-31101805/catalogue.pl?path=111515,111515&model_ref=14378839&page=2

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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

prob needs bearings

Belt has jammed or drum has slipped out off drum guides

I take it that the belt is ok and the drum is turning.The heater comes with thermostats fitted as a complete part.There is an overload safety thermostat which is situated inside the drum and above the door,it is held in place with a self tapping screw then prise open the plastic cover and then the thermostat will pull out,if replacing remember to refit the small gasket.Have you checked the filters and exhaust hose for any blockages as this will affect the heating.

Hope this helps

Its the Rollers

This is usually caused by one of three things: A high current wire has had its connector toasted (this usually happens near the heating element but could be in one of the gang plugs), or the limit bi-metal switch has quit working (located by the heating element) or the heating element has shorted itself to the metal around it and has opened. The expensive problem will be that the timer contact for the circuit (either the contact in the timer assembly or in the electric motor) has fried.
If you have an electronic timer, a relay might be bad.

These problems are easy to locate. Parts are readily available for anyone wishing to track the problem down. (Test light or jumper wires and the circuit knowledge needed.) The wiring diagram is usually on the back of the machine or in a folder behind the access panel.

thermostat/ or element//Good luck

Hi,

It seems that it is more likely a Burned Out Heating Element.

Check and let me know if the problem still persists.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using " Fixya " and have a nice day!!

take it apart and you will see that the belt is probably find the belt broke