Question about Zanussi TC7102W Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Dryer does not dry clothes

The dryer drum does move but there is no heat so therefore not drying the clothes. Does the dryer have a reset button anywhere.

I have lost the manuel and am finding it frustrating as to what to do.  Please can you help? Thanks

Posted by Trudlebugs on

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  • emmanuelir Nov 11, 2007

    The dryer does not heat tumble turns weel, checked both heat fuse at the back, they are fine, bypassed them with wire, same no heat.
    I suppose there is an other fuse of something somewhere that need to be checked ?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • emmanuelir Nov 11, 2007

    An other thing i can check
    What shall be the voltage between the fuse wire and the earth ?

    Where can i find a electrical diagram, i'm electrician myself and would like to follow step by step the supply to the eater resistance.

    thanks
    emmanuel

  • Jpgomez Dec 08, 2007

    I have a whirlpool electric dryer and the drum spins, but no heat comes out what do i do to fix it?

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Anonymous

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If the dryer tumbles but does not warm up, you either have one or two blown thermal fuses, a burned out element if it’s electric, or a burned out igniter if it’s gas.

 

If one of the two thermal fuses are blown you will not get heat.  Thermal fuses blow (and are not resetable, they must be replaced) when the machine gets too hot.  Often this is caused by not enough air flow through the machine.  Check and make sure your exhaust vent is not clogged.  Clean it the best you can to get all the lint, dead mice, bird nests, etc. out.  Also make sure air is blowing out of the machine when it is turned on.  If not you have a blower problem.

 

The thermal fuses are located on the element casing.  They each have two wires coming out of them.  They are about 3/4 inch round with screw ears on the sides so they are about 1 1/2 inch long and about an inch across.  With a multimeter, check the continuity across the terminals.  If there is no continuity the fuse needs to be replaced.

 

To check the element(s), you can either visually look and see if it is broken or check the continuity with a multimeter.  No continuity means the element is broken.  Replace if necessary.

 

To check for a broken igniter, take out the old one and look at it.  If it looks broken or very burned, replace it.

Posted on Oct 17, 2007

  • Peter Grantham
    Peter Grantham Jan 09, 2017

    "If the dryer tumbles but does not warm up, you either have one or two blown thermal fuses, a burned out element if it’s electric, or a burned out igniter if it’s gas" - Is not 100% correct.

    The first thing to do is to check that the airflow within the tumble drier is not blocked. Remove ALL filters clean and check them. It is the cheapest and quickest solution, before you even consider calling an engineer.

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The first thing to do is to check that the airflow within the tumble drier is not blocked. Remove ALL filters clean and check them. It is the first thing that you should do with all tumble drier not getting hot problems.

Posted on Jan 09, 2017

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I HAVE A LG GAS DRYER AND IT DOESNT DRY CLOTHES. I HAVE NO POWER GOING THE COILS AND THE IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT TURN ON A FLAME. THE TIMER STAYS ON 6 MINUTES FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND DOESNT DRY CLOTHES. THERES NO POWER GOING TO THE COILS. WHAT CAN IT BE?

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

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1 Answer

Why does my Estate dryer squeal so loud?


Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.

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Roper dryer works on high heat only


DID U CHECK THE HI LIMIT AND THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT? AS WELL AS THE MOISTER SENSOR?

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.

1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while






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1 Answer

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