3 single poll rocker switch alternative wiring

A one phase 3 wire system has a center tap. Two hots and a neutral. Typical 120/240 volts.
A three phase 4 wire system has Three hots in a Y or Delta. The Y system has three hots and the neutral comes from the center of the Y, this is the neutral and grounded conductor, 120 volts from hot to ground and 208 volts hot to hot. In a 3 phase system the voltage is not doubled hot to hot as in a single phase system because the hots are 120 degrees phased from each other and the square root of 3 is the factor, multiply the 120 volts by 1.73 to get 208 volts hot to hot. Multiply 208 by the reciprocal of 1.73 and get 120 volts. Your exact application is not given so it is not known. A delta system is a triangle and the angle of each triangle is a hot wire, one angle would be grounded or the center tap of one of the sides of the triangle. Y is the configuration of the windings of the alternator or transformer and Delta is the configuration as a triangle of the windings of the alternator or transformer where the power supply is.

With a three phase home service, you can only connect two hots from your single phase generator, and the neutral. One of the house's hot does not get connected and any three phase loads in the house should be switched off and kept from energyzing or a circuit breaker or fuse serving that 3 phase load may trip.
Only one power supply can be connected at a time. The power company power must not be connected at all while using an alternate power supply unless your power supply has means to synchronize the alternating cycle.

It is adviced that the loads be kept within 10% of their rated voltage, especially motors.

Identify each of the 5 wires with voltage testing.
Find which breaker serves the 3-wire, and which breaker serves the 2-wire.
--You might have a 3-pole 3-phase breaker (with 3 hot wires) plus a single-pole breaker (with 1 hot and 1 neutral) ... giving a line with 4 hot wires and 1 neutral.
--Or you might have a 3-pole 3-phase breaker (with 3 hot wires) plus double-pole breaker (with 2 Hots) ... giving a line with 5 hot wires and no neutral.
The 4 wires from machine are probably 3 Hots and a neutral, or 3 Hots and a ground.

You need to identify where the ground wire is. One of the 5 wires from breaker box might be a ground.

Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-3-phase-electric.html
http://www.electriciantalk.com/f5/

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg

Utilitec can only replace single-pole switch.
Open following link for typical Utilitec single-pole wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-LW60419.html

Aube timer has internal battery that runs clock mechanism and does not require neutral wire.
The Aube battery lets timer replace single-pole or 3-way switch.
Utilitec timer does not have battery, so clock mechanism requires neutral wire, just like plugging in electric clock.
Without battery, timers like Utilitec can only replace single-pole switch.

Open following link to see list of timers that can be used for 3-way:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Aube-timers.html#3-way

When installing 3-way timer, the timer replaces one 3-way switch but other 3-way switch remains.
The remaining 3-way is rewired to accommodate the specific timer being used.
SOME brands of timer cannot replace either 3-way switch, but instead can only replace the 3-way that receives hot wire from breaker: Read manual before selecting timer.

Note: Battery-operated timers can be used for 3-way application, but cannot operate in cold environment.

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

The white wire is used to power electronics inside timer:

Single pole switch has two insulated wires.
Remove both insulated wires from switch.

Timer black connects to one of the insulated switch wires, or to Hot wire from breaker
Timer red connects to the other insulated switch wire, or to Load wire going to fan, light, motor.
Timer white connects to Neutral wire from breaker box. Neutrals are white wires that are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer white wire to bare ground wire.
Timer green connects to bare ground.

Turn power on, and check if timer is working. If timer is not working, then reverse timer black and timer red wires.
This wiring information has been tested and is accurate.
If timer does not function correctly with correct wiring, then move timer to another location to see if timer is defective, if timer does not work on specific Load, then noise or interference on line can be suspect. Also check ratings for timer and compare with Load ratings.

If you have countdown timer connected to whole house motor/fan, then horsepower rating is important consideration. If timer is rated 1/6 HP and whole house fan is 1/2 HP, then timer will not work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html

if your breaker is triping you have a short somewhere if you have a meter turn power off and set the meter to continuiny or the setting to see if you have a open line if it has a beeping function that will work . you have three wires white-neutral black-hot green-ground . if you clip one lead to ground say on a metal box or the ground wire and with the power off you should get a beep with the neutral wire but the hot side should not beep if it does it means it is shorted to ground and you have to trace it from there to find the proplem a bigger breaker will not change the problem please write me back if you need more help will talk on phone to run you through problem

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

Screw terminals are color-coded on each switch. They vary by device.

Green screw always ground
Silver screw always neutral > except some 4 ways switches
Brass screw is hot > can be hot from breaker or hot wire going to load > or in 3-way switch can be hot traveler wires from other 3-way switch
Dark screw is hot > can be hot from breaker > or in 3-way switch is hot going to load

Single-pole switch:
2 brass screws > hot and load wires connect to either screw

3-way switch:
2 brass screws connect to travelers
dark screw goes to hot from breaker and hot to load

Switch-plug combo and pilot light switches:
dark screw goes to hot from breaker
silver screw to neutral, brass screw goes to load

Double switch:
dark screw goes to hot from breaker
brass screws each go to load

Receptacles:
brass screw goes to hot from breaker and to hot going to next receptacle
silver screw goes to neutral and to neutral going to next receptacle.

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/e1010%20-%20english.ashx
Half of the online manual is upside down.

According to the manual, the clock motor that operates the timer requires a separate Neutral wire.
The clock motor is a separate circuit, just like your alarm clock.

The wiring is:
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to timer-black wire
Wire-to-Load connects to timer-red wire

Timer-white wire connects to Neutral.
The Neutrals are white wires twisted together and covered with a wire nut.
Not every box has Neutrals ... in that case, connect timer-white wire to bare copper wire.
Bare copper wires connect back to the Neutral busbar in breaker box.
Attaching your white wire to ground is not code, but it will work.

How to test your wires:
Separate wires
Turn on power
Test each wire to bare ground
Tester lights up on Hot wire from breaker
Now test Hot from breaker to each of the other wires, except ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral