Hi I just bought a 2004 Mazda 323 and I had to turn the key twice to start it. The next day it wouldnt start at all until I charged the battery with jumper cables. The third day it wouldnt start again even after I used jumper cambles, however the lights did come on. I checked the battery and it is fully charged. I am so frustrated due to the fact I just bought the car!!! If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Cheryl

Hi, chances are you have at least one bad battery cable. Check them with an ohm meter. If you have any resistance in your reading, say above 0.02 change your cable. Hope that helps.

You need to have the factory security system scanned, it is most likely locking you out due to a fault.

step 1check for spark take off coil lead then unscrew plug pop the plug back into the lead and hold it to the block turn the car over if it sparks then you know there ok
step 2
fuel...
turn on reds on dash the listen out for a buzzing sound this would be fuel pump if no sound fuel pump could be faulty hence why car won't start!

Your alternator is not charging the battery. Remove it and have it tested at your local parts store. Fully charge the battery with a charger. If the alternator tests good, reinstall it and start the car. Check the voltage at the battery and also at the alternator on the big charge wire terminal. Report the voltages here for additional troubleshooting steps.

disconnect all the connections to the battery and clean them , also clean all the grounds, check the alternator to engine ground, and engine to body grounds, what you describe is indication of a bad connection and applying the brake is enough to to lower the voltage needed to power the ignition circuit, brake light use a lot of juice

if it trys to turn over spray starter fluid to the carb. it might start then

you meant its a NO CRANK engine.
silent starter, say the word silent.
even the starter relay must click.
and if head lamps die, so will be the starter.
due to a dead battery,
sounds like a bad battery to me. dead or only
DISCHARGED.
if the Charge/battery lamp is off in the cluster driving. its ok. the alternator.

starter car with the jumper cables connected
and not next day.
only live jumps matter. or you go know where.
if you want to walmart they have tool there that
tests the alternator
battery
and for phantom drains all in 6 min work, the tool does all the work.

if the battery is charged, it will crank I bet
its discharging.
for 1 of 3 reasons.
1: its bad.
2: the charge system is dead.
3: phantom drains, it goes dead as you sleep
the head lamps dead is the big clue there.

It's fine to use a battery with a higher cold crank rating than original. Consider the rating in the manual to be a minimum requirement. You'll be fine as long as the physical dimensions and terminal placement are compatible with your car. The battery manufacturer's guide should tell you which battery fits your car.

No thats fine as long as its 12v it will be fine you will just have a little more reserved power for start up. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA

Fcuk I got same problem with my Mazda 3 year 2004. Noone can help me at all !!! Even in Mazda they have no idea where is problem. For me it is at the moment only in cold weather. I cannot get throught immobilizer. After few turns it works, but not always (only when its bit warmer). I found out that if it is warmer, and I turn on ventilation for a while after it will let me go! Immobilizer starts flashing ... after few more minutes and turning key few times it will let me go !!! Please write me to [email protected] if you will know updates... I am desperate , cannot use my car in winter at all or cold weather. In summer works fine