I know this question is old but I recently encountered a similar problem with my 1995 323 BA and this may help someone else. Override the immobilizer by doing the following:
open the car via the drivers door
put the key in the ignition
turn the key to ACC
now turn the key to ON
repeat the last 2 steps X 12 quickly (ignore the indicators flashing and the central locking activating).
the dashboard should be lighting up as normal.
Now turn the key to START
To fix Mazda 323 BA immobiliser problem. You get out of car close door then lock it using key, then unlock it with key. Now lock it with key again. Open with remote and all should be right to start it as normal...
SOURCE: how to put gear stick into neutral on mazda 323 without coded key
hot wire the car this will bring the ignition lights on then you can put it into neutral
SOURCE: Renault Scenic 1998
i understand your without your car please dont leave me bad feedback i did some research for you maybe it will work maybe it wont i dont know. but this is what i found out on a forum of your car and everyone having the same problem
Hi there,
I work for Renault and have been interested by the uproar caused by the
immobiliser systems. I can however understand frustration caused when
the key no longer works.
There are two main types of immobiliser sytem, the infrared which can
be identified by the small glass ball at the base of the black part of
the key and the ultrasonic or radio type system. These differ in two
ways. The first infrared system relies on the button on the key being
pressed to deactivate the imobiliser. The second has a seperate chip
and a decoder ring around the ignition barrell and even if the key does
not operate the central locking should have no adverse effect on the
car starting.
If you have the first system which is the earlier of the two and was
phased out around 1998 a good way to check if the key is still
operational (even if the red light comes on) is to point the key at a
mobile phone camera and you should be able to see blue light coming
from the glass ball on the key. If there is no light then the key is
usually unsalvageable and would require replacement. If there is light
coming out of the key yet it does not start the car it is most likely
that the key and the car have gone 'out of sync' and will need to be
're-phased'. On anything other than a megane or scenic it requires the
Renault Diagnostic computer to be connected to the vehicle before the
key can be rephased.
Over-riding the imobiliser is possible but you will need the imobiliser
code which contary to popular belief is avaliable from Renault dealers
(usually about £10+vat). Renault UK have issued a document to dealers
that authorise them to pass on this information provided you have shown
photo id and the V5 registration document (The code is obtained from
the chassis number). For a Laguna you will need to use the pedal and
wiper stalk method of code entry and for a megane or scenic the code is
entered via the central locking button. Immolbilser codes are not
inside the key!! The number on the key together with the chassis number
when entered into a crypted Renault database then produce an
immobiliser code.
If you have the later radio type key there are no 'cheats' to over-ride
the system and a diagnostic routine will be the way to go. You could
guess and replace coded ring around the steering lock but these rarely
give trouble and are often incorrectly diagnosed as the fault.
There is not a design fault with these systems, perphaps what is more
of a problem is that inside your key is delicate circuitry that is
unfortunatley often over delicate and anything such as magnets, heat,
cold, dropping the key or sitting on it could have an adverse effect on
it. As such my advice to you all would be to treat your key like gold
dust as in 90% of cases the key is the problem rather than the car
itself.
I hope this provides some answers and whilst i'm not strictly defending
Renault I hope it provides a view from the other side of the fence. By
the way an honest and reputable dealer should not charge you more than
half an hour's labour to 're-phase' the key and again if you are
replacing the key (which is about £70+vat) the labour charge should not
be more than half an hour.
HOPE THIS HELPED BUT HERE IS THE WEBSITE WITH ALL THE INFO FOR YOU.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t453184.html
SOURCE: Owner's manual for Mazda 1995 car 323 - auto
autozone.com sign up its free then click on repair manuals you will find all of your info there....good luck
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