I have a GE gas dryer and the ignitor is a WE4X750. I tested the ohms and I get no resistance. Does that indicate it is bad for sure?

If it's an HSI (hot surface ignitor) that glows, then usually the ignition control module looks at it's current draw, to assume that it's hot enough to ignite the gas. If the current draw isn't sufficient, then it won't open the gas valve.

If you see it glow, put your volt meter on the gas valve terminals to see if it gets energized. If it doesn't energize before it locks out, then let the HSI cool down to room temp and check the resistance of it. Compare that resistance reading to a new one (one that is worn will have a higher resistance than a new one - more resistance, less current draw!).

The oven ignitor should have a resistance reading of about 3.2 to 3.6 ohms. If the readings are out of this specification or show open replace the ignitor. measure the resistance of the oven valve. The gas valve should have about 1.5 ohms of resistance. If the gas valve is OK, the control board is suspect. The ignitor needs 120vac to work.

Replace the ignitor you broke and check gas valve coils for continuity (they should be in the range of 500 - 2000 Ohm, don't remember exactly). Very likely one of them has failed.
Part numbers for the ignitor (any will do, they're identical):

4391996
WE4X750
5303937186

Part numbers for gas valve coils (complete kit, also identical):

279834
5303931775

Good luck,
Vlad
First Choice Appliance

The way to tell for sure is to take an ohm reading on both and a current reading on the ignitor. The thermostat should read 0 ohms when calling for heat. The ignitor should read some resistance but not an open circuit. The current draw through the ignitor should be about 3.2 Amps, any less means it is too weak to open the gas valve.

If you do not have meters try these checks.

If the ignitor glows at all then the thermostat is good. If the ignitor does not glow at all it could be either the thermostat or the ignitor,

If you can see the ignitor close up sometimes you can see a white spot on it or a crack, this means the ignitor is bad.

If you have to guess which one the smart money is on the ignitor being bad

Thanks for getting back. I did fix my dryer. After viewing exploded views of the dryer cabinet (on-line) and learning where the ignitor was located. I removed it, checked the resistance and discovered some corrosion had built-up on one side of the ignitor. I scraped it away, re-assembled everything and it worked.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Now, if the ignitor passes the inspection, and test, this will lead to a failed set of gas valve coils.


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

NOTE:- If there is a set of bad gas valve coils on the burner assembly, this will cause the ignitor to shutdown as well. Test the coils to make sure that they are functioning, and letting the gas through the valve. If the coils do not show resistance, replace them.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

if ignitor not coming on could be flame sensor mounted on side of burner housing or ignitor ..if ignitor glowing but burner no lighting replace both solenoids bad connections interally on solenoids..also if ignitor not glowing possible small white thermal fuse open.. sensor and fuse can be jumped across to confirm ..

Probably a high limit fuse. Check on the burner shroud for a 2 wire thermos. They should have little resistance. If so replace. If they are open, check for a restricted vent. Remove front panel and clean out area below filter.