Electrical wiring code for installation of new plugs and lights in an upstairs addition? I sense that the plugs should be on a seperate 20 amp breaker and the lights on a seperate 15 amp breaker, but I also feel that the 4 plugs and lights could be supplied by the one 15 amp breaker? Any hints based on code?

You've already exceeded 200 amps . You should put in a 125 amp sub panel in the shop. You should get a copy of the electrical code book so you won't run afoul of the electrical inspector. The book also spells out correct wire size for the distance and how many outlets on each branch circuit. Dint forget GFI's for wet areas.

1) Subpanel will let you add additional breakers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

2) Stress test main panel if needed
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress

3) Do not use 2 gfci's on same line.
This can cause errant tripping.

4) Separate disconnect is required for all outdoor electrical installations.
This is to prevent somebody from working on live electricity outside because they cannot access circuit breaker panel, or because they turned off wrong breaker.
Simple pull-out disconnect is all that's needed.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Jan 2013
1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.
Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps
Compare amp load with circuit breaker.
20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.
If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.
If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.
Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.
Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You need three #8 wires for AE125. Two #8 wires for AE115.

1) Copy following link for wiring information:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

2) The AE125 has 3 elements, and requires 3 wires.Each wire is sized #8 copper, and is connected to 40 amp breaker, up to 100 feet. Over 100 feet, use 50 amp breaker and #6 wire. Oversizing breaker and wire is smarted and more efficient than undersizing.

3) Often a separate subpanel is installed to provide 3 extra spaces.

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Main-subpanel-Tankless-600.jpg


4) Makes sure main breaker panel can accept additional 120 amps of draw without overampping panel ... and starving other appliances of full power.... that will damage appliances, overheat motors, and damage main panel and overheat main breaker. You want to oversize, not undersize electric service when installing tankless electric, which is why I do not recommend tankless electric installation, including issues of costing more to operate, and expensive repairs, and general money risk-nuisance of owning tankless vrs tank-type heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

A 20 Amp breaker will support 2400 Watts with a 120 Volt line.

120 Volts times 20 Amps (Amperes) = 2400 Watts.

Answer? 24 100Watt light bulbs.

HOWEVER, you should always allow 1 cushion of 100 Watts.
That would be 23 100Watt light bulbs.

(Wait until you add electric motors to the equation. Things start getting a little more complicated)

(I always use 20 amp breakers for lighting. 15 amp breakers for lighting is phased out.

Secondly a 20 amp breaker requires using 12-2 or 12-3 wiring. (12/2, 12/3)
SO does the receptacles.
Therefore 12 gauge wiring is used throughout the house, until you come to the heavier loads )

[ 12/2 = 2 insulated conductors, and one bare copper ground wire.
12/3 = 3 insulated conductors, and one bare copper ground wire.

Remember, with 12/2 the Black wire is ALWAYS the Hot wire. White is Common (Neutral). Bare copper is Ground wire.

12/3 has 3 conducting wires.
One Black, one Red, and one White for the Common. (Neutral) Bare copper is Ground.
Used for 3-way switches ]

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Yes. But do you have seperate yellow turn signal lights in the rear or do the turn signals work independant of the brake lights? If yes then you need to wire in a taillight converter. It takes your seperate left & right turn signals combines them with your brake lights on 2 wires instead of 3 leaving you with your normal 4 wires in total instead of 5. 1 Left turn & brake light. 1 Right turn & brake. 1 Taillight. 1 Ground. = 4 wires in total. If you dont have seperate rear turn signals just find left turn wire in taillight assembly, Right turn wire & Taillight & a good ground & you are done. On trailer plug yellow is left, green is right ,brown is tailight & white is ground.

if you are to do it right i would put the lights and receptacles on seperate 20 amp breakers and use #12awg wire it really depends on how much load you are to put on the receptacles and wether or not they will all be used at the same time. the lights will not draw much power at all but is always a good idea to seperate lighting loads from receptacles

I have the same tub and had a similar issue. We originally connected a 12guage with 20 amp circuit breaker and breaker kept trippin. The solution was to connect 10guage wire with a 30 amp breaker. Connect that to a gfi then connect the 12 guage wire coming out of the generator to the gfi (woulda made sense to just have 10g coming out but it was made in China). Being that theres only a short lead coming out of the generator its fine to run 10gauge, just make sure there connected seperately to a gfci breaker. The pump is fine 12 guage 20 amp.

I would say something a little different than SmithBrother. You said you are putting on an addition and you asked how many outlets can you put on a 20 amp breaker. Because of the date on your comment, it is probably a little late to be replying but whaat the heck ... here goes.

I think there is a rule of thumb that you can put about 12 "holes" in a 15 or 20 amp circuit. A "hole" is a hole in the wall where a box would be put for a outlet or a light or a switch. I presume you know to use #12 wire on a 20 amp circuit and while you may use #14 on a 15 amp circuit, I prefer to shy away from #14 wire even though I MAY protect a given circuit with a 15 amp breaker. You can over protect but not under protect. 30 amp is #10 and so forth.

There are lots of other considerations ... too many to do justice in this short comment. However, I will hit a few hi lites. As SmithBrother says, a micro wave should have its own circuit as should a AC or a frig - I think that may go without sayng. I think you are speaking more general use. I believe the electric code says every wall must have a plug in it and you can go no more than 6 feet to get to a plug. So, if you have a 12 foot wall, one outlet in the middle will meet the requirement. There is nothting preventing you from puttine two outlets in that same wall. From my perspective, I want to have lots of outlets and I want them to be convenient for me to use. (There are more than 200 outlets in my home) Another thing, you cant put a outlete over a electric baseboard heater. You can put one at each end of such a heater but not where a lamp cord would lay in top of the hot heater surface.

Regarding the 12 hole rule ... if you have two switches that control the same light, you only count those two switches as one hole even though, obviously, there are two holes in the wall for the two switches. Count a second hole for the light. Conversely, if there is a light and a fan, you should count that one hole in the ceiling as two.

The garage should be able to test the glow plugs without removing them. All the need to do is use an ammeter or amp clamp and measure the current drawn by the glow plugs. the glow plugs should draw 16 - 20 amps each. much less than that and they want replacing.