At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
bleeding brakes can be a **** of a job. You could try a trick I know. Take the lid off the brake fluid resivour, pump the front brake lever a few times untill its hard and then tape or zip tie the lever as far in against the hand grip as you can. Make sure none of the brake line is above the resivour ie there are no high then lower spots going along the brake line from the bottom to the top. Leave it like this over night, the theory is the pressure pushes the air bubbles up over night thats why you can have no high then low spots in the line or the air will just sit there. I have done this quite a few times and works well.
turn both hi and low set screws in on side of carb and then back them both out 1 1/2 turns. This is called the initial adjustment and you can fine tune it from there if needed, but only turn the screws about 1/8 of a turn at a time.
all 2 cycle weedeater type carb diaphram presets / initial settings are 1.5 turns after a gentle close. You will of course have to dial them in after the initial start.. (1 and 2 screw types)
ther is no set setting but to get it to run so it can be adjusted. lightly close the high off then open the low about two turns. try to start if starts slowly adust the low screw till it runs normal with the choke all the way off. then start to add throttle while turning the high out till regiured rpms ar reached with no misses. this takes awhile even fo a seasoned mech and may require several attempts
OK,could be several things. First Im assuming you have the right mixture in. The two fuel set screws on the carb may need adj,one is for high rev the other is for low end,this should be done by a proffesional. The carb could also need rebuilt and cleaned,it is deffinately in your carb though.
Hi When you cleaned the muffler out did you also clean the carbon out of the port on the cylinder as this can be blocked as well. Also you will have to retune the carby, There should be 2 screws 1 for low speed marked l on the carby body and 1 marked h for high speed to start with they should be set at 1 & 1/2 turns out from closed the low speed you set at an idle and the high speed you set at full throttle. Hope this helps.
That unit probably has a high side and a low side screw in the carb. Maybe, the screws are out of adjustment. One should have the letter L along side of it, that's the low side or idle side. The other of course would be the letter H which is the high side. That adjustment is only to be made when the unit is started and idling. When you give it full throttle that's when you adjust the H screw. Factory settings are usually 1 1/4 turns out from dead stop on the L screw and approx 3/4 to 1 turn on the H screw after unit is running. If however, this doesn't solve the problem a simple carb kit can be purchased for about 5 bucks and very easy to install. Good luck.
where do i get answer or do i get answer on e-mail
×