It ignites but then goes out...like not enough gas is getting through

You most likely have a bad ignitor. They get weak and still glow but will not create enough current to turn on gas valve like it should.

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

two things, is it a spark igniter or hot surface?
if spark igniter is working then the pilot tube or fuel path to the igniter is plugged, a lot of times small spiders or insects will winter over in these tubes, build a small web or cocoon that restricts gas flow to the igniter. OR hot surface igniter not hot enough and will not lite the gas. can be tested with an amp probe or just replaced .

Based on your model number this furnace does not have a pilot light,instead it uses a hot surface igniter.typically it glows and when it gets hot enough the gas valve will open and the burners will light.When the igniter starts to go bad it will glow but not get hot enough to open the gas valve.If your furnace lights and the quickly goes out the flame sensor maybe dirty.

I had the same problem. It was my igniter. It was all corroded and oxidized. Would not properly ignite the gas fast enough and when it finally ignited, the excess gas in the chamber would explode and put out the flame and cycle over and over with bang. Took igniter out, cleaned and filed down the copper prongs. Replaced and all was well.

Hello gdurawa
Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,

You said, upon starting my Kenmore gas dryer the igniter glows and the gas ignites, but the gas goes out after 15 or 20 seconds - clothes don't dry.

This means either the igniter is bad and not getting hot enough to make the gas continue to release completely and stay open, so it shut off.
or you have a bad gas module.
Or a bad gas valve without enough pressure.
Needs to be diagnosed hands on at your location .



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When room temp, you'll see about 80 ohms. As it heats the resistance goes up, and thus the amperage draw goes up, which is the critical component to release of gas and thus ignition. The ignitor needs to reach 3.2 to 3.6 amps before the gas safety valve will open and release the gas for ignition. Old ignitors get weak and even if they still glow they may not draw enough amperage to allow the oven to work. Also, low voltage will result in lower amperage draw and possible ignition problems.

DEAR CORDLESS TRY CHANGEING THE GLOW IGNITER THE GLOW IGNITER GOES BAD AFTER A FEW YEARS AND YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THEM YOUR BURNER SHOULD LIGHT IN 30 TO 60 SECONDS IF YOUR GLOW IGNITER IS NOT DRAWING ENOUGH AMPS YOU WILL SMELL GAS BUT NOT IGNIGHT THANKS GEORGE

I seem to be working on the same problem. What I found bothers me. As a safety feature, the hot surface igniter, (HSI), is in series with the gas valve. If the HSI is dead, then there is no gas flow, which is a good thing. However, if the HSI has increased in resistance, as mine has, it still allows the gas valve to open partially. Not quite enough gas flow to support an ignition but, enough to allow gas to escape. I would suspect your HSI increases resistance after you get a flame causing the gas valve to close long enough for the flame to stop, then the HSI decreases it's resistance enough to allow the gas valve to partially open. Please verify this on your own as I am just a regular home owner myself.