2 red & 2 white wires from motor, 2 red from start capacitor and a 2 wire rocker type on/off switch. Can you tell me how to hook them up? I know, I screwed up and didnt take a picture or make a drawing.
First of all the white wires are common from the line in to the plug. the line black from the plug goes switch and red from the switch to the cap and then to the motor and should work fine
SOURCE: Given a bench grinder which did not work. How to test/fix?
I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.
SOURCE: older sears bench grinder wont run 1/3 hp model 397 19581
Hi again, OK, Well since I don't have a wiring diagram and the colors don't help. I am also going to assume it is 110VAC. The larger wires are probably the run or primary, it you remember which ones were connected it will help with polarizing. ( getting it to run in the right direction as well as the start and primary working together). You can use the two terminal switch but you should use a three wire cord. Use the switch to break the neutral and ground the case. The connections should be as follows: Connection 1, would have one of the primaries and one of the starts to neutral. Connection 2, the other start to the relay. Connection 3, the coil side of the relay to the remaining primary. ( if the relay has two connections on one end and one on the other it would be the single) Connection 4, the 3rd position on the relay to hot. That is how a split phase is wired. You may find a simple wiring diagram on the net if you type split phase motor wiring diagram. Good Luck to you, this should Fixya!
SOURCE: switch and capacitor crapped out on 1/2 hp Sears bench grinder
Replacement should be simple. Just do a one for one hookup with the new part, after you unplug it first.
For a diagram go to;
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=397.1949&productCategoryId=0721000&brandId=0247&modelName=CRAFTSMAN-1%2F2-H.P.-GRINDER&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=00023041&pop=flush
SOURCE: Need to know were to hook up, pressure switch
Black wire to L-1, White wire to L-2 Green is ground and also bonds to green wire in the switch.
SOURCE: I have a Cummins 1/2 hrs.bench grinder in pieces.
The capacitor goes across the Line, terminals, of the Motor, The Black, should Be Neutral, the RED should be Power IN to the Switch, and the Blue, the "Other" side of the switch. The Capacitor, sometimes goes on the Spare (If any) Terminals of the "Cold" side of the Power Switch.
International color code is Red Positive or Phase, Blue, Phase or Positive, Black, usually Neutral, Negative .
The capacitor is a Suppression" capacitor,and is usually "Across the Motor terminals on "Cold" or "Switched" side of the circuit.
The circuit is simple, Neutral is "Common" the Power comes in to the Switch Contact, whereby the activation of said switch, joins the "Contacts" to the Phase. Positive, Wire to the "Motor". The "Other Terminal Wire from the Motor, goes to Common. The capacitor. Is installed in Parallel with the Phase and Neutral on the "Cold" or normally unpowered side of the circuit.
Testimonial: "Worked perfectly! Thanks so much! off to sharpen some chisels. "
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