GETTING GAS TO CARB BUT NO GAS TO COMBUSTION CHAMBER NEW CARB?

The fuel pump uses impulse air from the crankcase.

To check impulse air, leave the oil dip stick cap loose and resting freely on the fill tube. If cranking the engine causes the dipstick to move up/down then likely there's sufficient impulse air.

For the pump to operate, the tube from the pump to the crankcase cannot be cracked and must be secure at both ends. The oil fill cap must be in place with no gross leaks.

See attached pic for proper pump connections. Some pumps are different and can be confusing. The connection that is in a different plane (pump body) will be impulse input.

The misfiring cylinder clearly has something that is absent - if it has compression, timing, the right amount of fuel reaching the combustion chamber and a good spark it has to be firing. That it doesn't fire but does have compression, timing presumably and spark the only thing missing is fuel.

Assuming it is a single carb it is reasonable to expect both cylinders will automatically receive equal amounts of fuel...

I suggest you revisit the valves and ensure the valves are opening fully and if they are carry on and recheck the the other requirements. If the plug covers are a suppressor type it could be worth swapping them over in order to test.

Before doing anything, make sure that the timing and valves are properly adjusted. THEN, you need to check the ignition system and the fuel delivery systems for proper operation.You need spark and fuel delivery for that puppy to run. Did you check the ignition coil to make sure it is good? Are you getting a strong spark at the plug? Did you try starter fluid? Is new carb properly adjusted?

Check to see if the fuel pump is actually receiving power and pumping the gas to fuel rail or carb.

needle not attached to float properly or a hair or the like not allowing the needle to close off properly

if you have gas in the primer bulb its working. gas is sucked from tank to carb , out return tube to primer bulb and back to the tank from the primer bulb. most likely dirt in carb or hard diaphram not opening needle valve allowing fuel to be sent. carb kits are around 12 bucks . but carbs for troybilts are usually only 20 bucks. I would just replace the whole carb if the case. if the bulb stayed empty I would look for broken fuel line in the tank that holds the fuel filter. they rot and break off within a year or two.

Kicking over is the action of moving the engine with the kick-starter. I will presume it kicks over but does not fire at all.

It really sounds like flooding.

Drain the carb, and disable fuel delivery. If the shutoffs are vacuum operated pull that line and put a golf tee in it. If manual, turn to off.

Remove the plug, and turn the engine over enough to be sure the insides are dry.

Out the plug back in, and give it a shot of starer fluid (careful with that stuff!), and try to start it. If it shows some signs of life, then you almost certainly are flooding.

Use a syringe to put a dose of fuel in the carb through the float chamber vent. Make sure it is not too much. Again, give it a little shot of starter fluid, and see if it will start and run sustained a little as it feeds on the gas you put into the carb. If it will, your float and needle change either was done incorrectly, or the float height was not adjusted right.

You seem to be describing a VERY lean gas mixture.
The spark plugs get VERY hot - so they do not need the power from the key to keep running... they fire gas until the fuel pump gas dries up (or the carb float bowl) - AKA dieseling.

Lean mixtures idle high - and can burn valves.
So, it is carb or FI? IF carb - something is reducing the flow of gas through the jets. Fuel pressure, dirt, clogged fuel filter.

Best/cheapest 1st shot at fixing this would be to spray carb cleaner in the carb with the engine running.
Second, add fuel line cleaner/gas additive to the gas tank.
If you see no improvement after driving 20 to 30 miles, then it is time to take it in to a shop and have the timing checked (advanced timing will lean out the combustion chamber mixture). Then fuel pressure test and finally, filter replacement.

Almost certainly one of the above will improve/cure the problem.

is it an overflow from the carb? gas will only be in one of 2 tubes and they are the fuel line from the tank and the carb over flow. unless you have an electronic fuel pump then tubes go from tank to pump to carb. if its coming from the overflow then you are getting too much fuel into the carb float chamber. you may have a sticky float. thy getting some Berrymans B12 fuel additive and putting double the doseage in the tank. run engine til hot then leave it to stand overnight. this should break down any gum/varnish that has built up in the system

has this been in storage thru winter?