Need to connect 3 wires from pole to 2 wires in unit

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/ProductBrandAllModels/a16b375

do you have 240 vac at heating elements, not 125vac?

What temp do you have the thermostat set to? Normally, we set 140 degrees f

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) First of all you need to determine what device you are replacing. Single-pole or 3-way.
Add a comment any time

Remember you can also take advantage of fixya phone service, where expert speaks to you over the phone while you are installing device. This service is not free.

2) If you are replacing single-pole switch, that is where one switch controls the Load (light fan motor)
Here are instructions for installing ipp15-11 Motion switch for single-pole replacement.
Old switch has 2 insulated wires plus bare ground wire.
Ipp15 bare copper ground wire will connect to bare copper ground wire.

Separate switch wires for testing.
Use ordinary two prong tester, tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to ipp15 screw marked BL black.
The other wire that came off switch will connect to ipp15 screw marked RD red
Hot wire is identified.
Located in back of box are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Remove this nut.
Now test Hot wire to all other wires in box, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral wires. ipp15 screw marked WH white connects to neutral wires.
If your box does not have neutral wire, then connect ipp15 WH white to bare ground wires.

4) If you are replacing 3-way switch, that is where 2 different switches control the same Load (light fan motor.
3-way switch has 3 insulated wires and a bare ground wire.
Note screw colors on old 3-way switch. Dark screw is the Load wire. The 2 brass screws are the travelers.
From the ipp15 instructions, it appears you will need Viza Coordinating Switch Remote plus a sensor device to accomplish the 3-way installation.
If you have both of these devices and want free written instructions, then add a comment and I will verbalize contents from the manual.
Also you can pay a fixya expert to talk over the phone.

5) Leviton also offers technical assistance at 1-800-824-3055

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)


Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

1) Here is Diehl 880 instruction manual

2) Diehl 880 is 120V timer
-1/2 HP
-1000 Watt tungsten. Tungsten means incandescent light bulbs.

3) Checklist:
a) Your load does not exceed capacity > Timer is too lightweight to control 1500 toaster oven.
b) You need 120V line coming from breaker box with black Hot wire and white Neutral
c) You need 120V line going to Load that also has black and white wire
d) Test each black wire to ground to see which black wire is HOT

4) Deihl 880 sell sheet pdf says 880 is available SPST (single pole single throw) -or- SPDT (single pole double throw).
-The difference is pole #4 on the timer.
-If you are trying to turn one circuit off just as another circuit turns on, then you need the SPDT
-If you are turning one circuit on-and off, then the following instructions are for you



5) Wire clock
-There are 5 poles > look for markings 1-thru-5
-If no marking, then poles 1&2 are probably spaced apart from other poles
-Connect Hot and Neutral wires to poles 1&2 >> this powers clock motor, they go on either pole

-Pole 4 not used

6) Wire timer
-Poles 3&5 are timer circuits
-Connect Hot line to pole 3
-Connect black wire going to Load to pole 5
-Connect white wire from Load to Neutral

pole 3 and 2 are now one pole, one wire is common. find your diagram

you get 120V from any phase (black OR red) to neutral
you get 240V from phase to phase (between black and red) and in this scenario you don't need the white wire.
So for you, connect the black to 1 pole of the breaker and the red to the other pole, connect the green wire to the ground strip and you are done.
A white wire is NEVER connected to a circuit breaker anyway, it is a grounded wire, it would be like connecting a green wire to a black wire, bad idea.
the National electrical code specifies red and black wire color for 240VAC circuits.
As Ask Hank mentionned, nothing wrong with 10/3 wire.